Fuel tank sealer

Hi i used POR15 in my  XS 1100 with out any problems ,its' been in the tank since 2016 i think the secret is as always the prep work is key with any tank sealer

I'm in the same boat. Some peeps I know have had good luck with POR 15 and others not. Me thinks it's the person doing the work more than the product. Which is why I'm looking for a professional to coat my kz tank.

Thanks for the thoughts and opinions. Tank sealer sounds like a nightmare if something goes wrong. I keep reading people say, they followed the instructions to the letter and it still went wrong.
After a week of electrolysis I still had rust at the bottom of the tank. So I used some Phosphoric acid overnight and it looks like new in there now. I made sure I neutralized the acid afterwards.
I may just forget the tank sealer and always keep it full of fuel in future...see how it goes. 

Hello,
here is my work on tank electrolysis and sealant, 

 

Thanks for that. There's something strangely therapeutic about watching rust removal.

One of the surprises I found when I received the motorcycle at home was to see that the fuel tank was rusted inside, it even had a pore through which it was leaking gasoline.
The same thing happened to me years ago with an old Montesa that I have and that I solved in an effective, economical and easy way.
I bought EPOXY RESIN treatment, cost 20 euros, it is used to repair boats on any surface, steel, wood, polyester, etc.
It has two components, resin and hardener, the mixture is 3/1.
You simply have to wash the inside of the tank with grease solvent and let it dry well, NO NEED TO USE RUST REMOVER, prepare a resin mixture of approximately 750cc. and pour it inside the tank, we have previously covered the holes of the gauge and the fuel valve with a ball of paper.
We turn the tank horizontally and vertically, in this case being careful not to cover the vaporizer tube, remember that the most rusty part is usually the base with the union of the sides.
After a few hours we repeat the turning, we remove the cap from the flume to eliminate the excess resin that we will store in a container.
There is no need to be in a hurry, the mixture takes a couple of weeks to dry completely, the longer the better, we will control the drying with the excess that we pour into the container, if you can't stick a finger nail in it, it is ready.
The result is a clean, lifelong repair.