Low RPM chain type rattle

The oil feed line i am speaking of is for the original tensioner that was on the bike. You are correct on the style of tensioner that was installed though. The zx1100 tensioner I installed on the bike is an OEM lightly used tensioner.

 On the topic of tensioners. Does anyone know which way the tensioner is supposed to go in? Or does it not matter? In other words, are you supposed to point the ratchet teeth up or the ratchet teeth down on the tension? Assuming of course the zx1100 tensioner will bolt in upside down. I think it will but I did not try it.

My '85 Voyager has that oil line connected to the back end of the cam tensioner. Kawasaki's parts diagram refers to Part number VVVVV-1004 which is supposedly a 'Check Valve'
 

Could this actually be a hydraulic adjuster?
I've only ever seen this oil line mentioned one time. It was in David's old FAQ article, from above. I have read a warning that suggested  the line must be plugged else oil pressure will be wasted. As I take i t apart I'll look toward installing a locking bolt so that the side cannot back out and the oil line can still be connected.
Bill

"Yes, the Kawasaki KZ1300 originally came with an automatic/hydraulic cam chain tensioner , but it's a known weak point, leading many owners to upgrade to a manual tensioner to prevent potential engine damage from the stock unit failing or over-tensioning at high RPMs. Aftermarket manual tensioners are a popular, more reliable replacement, designed to hold constant tension and avoid the issues of the original hydraulic design.  Why the Upgrade is Common: 

• Stock Problem: The original hydraulic tensioners can malfunction, either failing to provide enough tension (allowing chain slap) or applying too much (wearing guides).
• High-Performance Risk: On high-performance or heavily ridden KZ1300s, the automatic tensioners can even back out at high RPMs, causing major engine failure (bent valves).
• Manual Solution: A manual tensioner, like those from APE, offers a simple, reliable fix, ensuring consistent tension without the hydraulic risks. 

•  

So, while it did have a hydraulic one, most performance-focused owners switch to a manual version. "   

dcarver220b wrote:

"Yes, the Kawasaki KZ1300 originally came with an automatic/hydraulic cam chain tensioner , but it's a known weak point, leading many owners to upgrade to a manual tensioner to prevent potential engine damage from the stock unit failing or over-tensioning at high RPMs. Aftermarket manual tensioners are a popular, more reliable replacement, designed to hold constant tension and avoid the issues of the original hydraulic design.  Why the Upgrade is Common: 

• Stock Problem: The original hydraulic tensioners can malfunction, either failing to provide enough tension (allowing chain slap) or applying too much (wearing guides).
• High-Performance Risk: On high-performance or heavily ridden KZ1300s, the automatic tensioners can even back out at high RPMs, causing major engine failure (bent valves).
• Manual Solution: A manual tensioner, like those from APE, offers a simple, reliable fix, ensuring consistent tension without the hydraulic risks. 

•  

So, while it did have a hydraulic one, most performance-focused owners switch to a manual version. "   

Did you place your hand on the Bible when you came up with this?

None of the parts manuals show any cam chain tensioner options other than the one we are all familiar with. (spring loaded with a roller balls to lock the adjuster shaft and keep it from retracting)

My Porsche 928 had 2 hydraulic tensions on the drive chains between the intake cams and the exhaust cams. Never had a problem.

Hi Kawboy,
The first topic in David's old tech article which is now the FAQ for this site deals with the fragile/faulty cam chain tensioners that are stock on our 13s. He reviews how to modify and substitute the cam chain tensioner from a ZX11 for the stock cam chain tensioner and briefly mentions the manual tensioners that APE offers.
I have one on my KZ1300.
Bill
Later: I sense a poll coming on.

Asked Gemini Ai -

"Did later fuel-injected Voyager models (ZN1300) used a revised tensioner that some riders refer to as a "hydraulic" style because it incorporated oil pressure to assist the mechanical spring?"

Yes, you are correct. The fuel-injected ZN1300 Voyager (produced from 1983 to 1988) did utilize a revised cam chain tensioner often described as "hydraulic" or oil-pressure assisted.

This was a direct evolution of the tensioner used in the earlier carbureted KZ1300. While both designs are technically "automatic," the ZN1300 version added a specific connection to the engine's oil system to improve reliability.

The Two Tensioner Designs
Riders of the Kawasaki 1300 six-cylinder series generally distinguish between the two OEM types:

    •    The Early "Ball-Lock" Mechanical Tensioner (KZ1300): This version relied entirely on a internal spring to push the plunger forward. It used a one-way "ball-lock" mechanism (small steel balls in a tapered race) to prevent the plunger from retracting. Over time, these balls could vibrate and "peen" or dent the plunger rod, eventually causing the lock to fail and the cam chain to jump timing—often with catastrophic engine results.

    •    The Later "Hydraulic" Revised Tensioner (ZN1300): To address the failures of the early design, Kawasaki introduced the version found on the Voyager. It still uses a spring and a one-way locking mechanism, but it includes an external oil feed line. This oil pressure provides a secondary force to help the spring keep the plunger pushed against the chain guide. It also acts as a damper to reduce the vibration/chatter that caused the earlier versions to fail.

Key Identification Features
If you are looking at an engine or a parts diagram, the "hydraulic" ZN1300 style is easily identified by:
    1    Oil Feed Line: A thin metal or rubber tube running from the main oil gallery to the back of the tensioner body.
    2    Banjo Bolts: The presence of banjo bolts to secure this oil line to the tensioner.

The Community Verdict
Despite the "hydraulic" revision being significantly more reliable than the original 1979 design, many ZN1300 owners still consider it a weak point. Because the one-way locking mechanism (the "ball-lock") is still present inside, it can still technically fail if the oil pressure is low at startup or if the rod becomes worn.

For this reason, many riders still perform the "Manual Tensioner" conversion, replacing the entire unit with a simple bolt-and-locknut style (like those from APE) to ensure the timing can never jump.