Won't start. Very low compression.
- Kawboy
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Re: Won't start. Very low compression.
9 years 5 months ago
Check the stretch on the chain. Off the top of my head I believe the service limit is 128.9mm over 20 links. It's in the service manual. I've been investigating the specs on the chain because I'm about to replace mine. A new chain measures exactly 5 inches over 20 links since the pitch on the chain is 1/4". 5" is 127mm so Kawasaki is allowing 1.9mm stretch over 20 links. The chain I just pulled out of mine has only 1/3 of the allowable stretch and this photo shows the chain laying on the table and I've twisted it sideways to show the stretch in the chain. I only measured .025" of stretch over the 20 links and I can't accept the chain when it looks like this. I also found a link on the chain which was master link and it looks like it may have been tig welded. Anyway it was tight to swivel and I definitely can't accept that, so I'm in for a new chain. Still trying to spec it out. I only want to do this job once and I'm leery of picking up a chain that was made in China.
Chain standing up and twisted sideways
Chain standing up and twisted sideways
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- Kawboy
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Re: Won't start. Very low compression.
9 years 5 months ago
Tig welded master link?? Don't know. One pin looks like it was peened properly and the other was ???
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- Ledkz1300
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Re: Won't start. Very low compression.
9 years 5 months ago
I will.
I haven't decided what I want to do about this. Part of me wants to part it out on Ebay. The other part of me wants to find another and use this as a parts bike. Frustrating. If I was more of a mechanic I wouldn't be as chapped.
I haven't decided what I want to do about this. Part of me wants to part it out on Ebay. The other part of me wants to find another and use this as a parts bike. Frustrating. If I was more of a mechanic I wouldn't be as chapped.
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- Lucien-Harpress
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Re: Won't start. Very low compression.
9 years 5 months ago
I wouldn't give up just yet. I was by no means any kind of a mechanic either, and I ended up replacing a whole top end (and then some). The manual is a Godsend. Just take it one step at a time. I would hate for you to give up without actually finding out what's actually wrong.
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- Ledkz1300
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Re: Won't start. Very low compression.
9 years 5 months ago
Thanks...
No I don't want to give up. Every time I watch a video and hear this bike I want to keep going.
Another option has presented itself. I can pick up another one that had its engine rebuilt a few years ago with hardly any km on the rebuild. With shipping it would set me back 4500k. Then I'd have two. One for parts and one with hopefully a very strong engine.
If this is a worst case scenario could I be looking at a 5k rebuild? That is what it cost this guy.
No I don't want to give up. Every time I watch a video and hear this bike I want to keep going.
Another option has presented itself. I can pick up another one that had its engine rebuilt a few years ago with hardly any km on the rebuild. With shipping it would set me back 4500k. Then I'd have two. One for parts and one with hopefully a very strong engine.
If this is a worst case scenario could I be looking at a 5k rebuild? That is what it cost this guy.
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- Lucien-Harpress
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Re: Won't start. Very low compression.
9 years 5 months ago
Hm. Not sure of prices north of the border where you're at, but you could probably rebuild YOUR motor, bottom up, for that kind of price.
If you're willing, I'd at least get the head off first. You tried the oil-in-the-cylinder compression test, so I doubt the rings are bad. With the head off you can check the heights of each piston for possible rod bending, and by flipping over the head, filling each cylinder top with fuel, and checking for leakage, you can find out if you have any bad valves. Replace the cam chain idler while you're at it, and you're good.
$125 for a valve job
$100 for a head gasket (cheaper, if aftermarket)
$40ish for a idler gear
Rounded up for error, you're looking at $300-$350 (US) repair. None of which has to be spent if you find out there is something broke deeper in the engine.
I'd go digging first.
If you're willing, I'd at least get the head off first. You tried the oil-in-the-cylinder compression test, so I doubt the rings are bad. With the head off you can check the heights of each piston for possible rod bending, and by flipping over the head, filling each cylinder top with fuel, and checking for leakage, you can find out if you have any bad valves. Replace the cam chain idler while you're at it, and you're good.
$125 for a valve job
$100 for a head gasket (cheaper, if aftermarket)
$40ish for a idler gear
Rounded up for error, you're looking at $300-$350 (US) repair. None of which has to be spent if you find out there is something broke deeper in the engine.
I'd go digging first.
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