Dual stator wiring

this is related to the topic in a way.
I do a lot of winch competitions with a Jeep that has two 12 volt batteries in parallel, thats over 1000 cranking amps ish to the winches.
I supply the batteries with two 200 amp alternators with built in regulators
these are both wired to the first battery with a 50mm² cable and so on to the next battery and then the winches.
both alternators work fine together.
I cant see why two generators wired through there own regulators to the battery shouldnt work.

kwak1261 wrote: I cant see why two generators wired through there own regulators to the battery shouldnt work.

Kwak, now you have my curiosity piqued! Any time I have jump started another car I have left the cables connected for a few minutes with no issues. Both alternators have been pumping into both batteries and seem to work well together, too! This should be the same situation as you are running and that the Gold Wingers are trying to use.

Makes me wonder just what the issue is with the Gold Wings trying to parallel an external alternator with the stock built-in one. Of course, we never know just exactly what the owner did on the installation that might have caused an issue. I will read up some more about other Wingers' attempts to see what they did,.....or didn't!

Question: this is a side issue from the thread, but, other than when under a heavy winching load, do your batteries ever get warm individually while charging off the alternators?

Every situation I've seen, the added Goldwing alternator (the "Poor-Boy Conversion") is the only electrical generating source on the bike. Usually what happens is that the stock alternator craps out, the owner doesn't want to pull the motor, so he finds a high-output car alternator, wires it in, disconnects the stock stator, and goes about his business.

Honda generally had the power situation figured out by the time the 1200 rolled around. The GL1000 was a "muscle" bike, and a bit of an oddball. The GL1100 was redesigned to better suit the touring crowd, but was still a primarily "naked" model. The GL1200 was only offered as a naked model one year ('84, the first year of production), and from then on was a dedicated touring bike. The 1200 had quite a few stator issues as well- nearly all of them were recalled and upgraded with the (more powerful) stators fitted to the EFI models. The issues arises when people retroactively treat the early Goldwings as the touring monsters that they really weren't yet.

That's one thing that always made me wonder about Kawasaki. They needed more power (for the Voyager line), so rather than beef up the stator, they just added another one. Not the "cleanest" method of fixing the problem, but I digress. The main reason I was intrigued by adding another stator was the fact I live in deer country, and try to add driving lights to every bike I own. With early bikes only putting out enough power to rum themselves, this becomes an issue.

I was curious as to how one would control permanent magnet alternators working in parallel and thought well if I was designing this system I'd have a master and a slave system which would mean that the regulators would probably have different set points for turning off and on. Therefore the regulators would be different. Checking partszilla reveals that the regulators are different part numbers. 21066-1038 @ $182.24 and part number 21066-1051 @ $335.80.
Off the top of my head I would think that if you thought you could use 2 regulators with the same part number there could be some extensive surging due to the fact they would both be trying to regulate output voltage simultaneously. Reminds me of when I tried to boost start my 928 Porsche with a running truck all was fine till the Porsche started then in less than 2 seconds the Porsche started miss firing. Long story short I had fried the chips in the ignition computer. Luckily I found a Porsche guru who replaced the chips and reflashed the program for $400.00 Otherwise I was looking at $3000.00 for a wrecking yard computer.OUCH!!!!!

Kawboy wrote: I was curious as to how one would control permanent magnet alternators working in parallel...
Off the top of my head I would think that if you thought you could use 2 regulators with the same part number there could be some extensive surging due to the fact they would both be trying to regulate output voltage simultaneously.

Kawboy, you make two excellent points here.

First, our Kaw alternators are permanent magnet units as compared to automotive alternators, so their methods of regulation are totally different. On a car alternator they control the voltage to the rotor to control the overall output, but on the Kaw regulator they control the output of the alternator windings directly somehow, and it is this "somehow" that I think makes the difference in simply coupling two units together. Looking at the ZN1300's wiring diagram in the supplemental manual, there appears to be a wire between the two regulators that must carry some kind of coordinating signal between the two. Each stator feeds into each regulator directly, but the outputs are paralleled.

Secondly, Kawboy, your point about extensive surging is probably the problem they had on the external alternator trying to work with the built in one on that Wing. Trying to make the two different regulators work together would present a problem, but then add to that the fact that there is no connection between them for coordinating them, and no wonder they failed.

Lucien, the earlier 1300 engines had a crank balancer at one end of the crank and the rotor of the alternator at the other. For the redesign of the ZN1300 engines for the Voyagers, they decided they could add another alternator at the balancer end and use it's rotor for balancing, too! It didn't take much, so that was easy. According to the manuals, the stock KZ's give 28 amps of output and the ZN's give out 45.5 amps. Just a 17.5 amp increase. Not a lot by today's standards. But, driving lights can sure suck up a lot of juice! The headlight alone on a KZ takes up 18% of the output. Add two more of those and you have used more than half of the alternator's total output. OR MORE, depending on what lights you like to use!

Lucien-Harpress wrote: They needed more power (for the Voyager line), so rather than beef up the stator, they just added another one. Not the "cleanest" method of fixing the problem, but I digress.

"...digress."? I think you just brought us back to the direct point of this whole thread! It's about adding that second stator to a KZ engine to upgrade it's output, and what the problems might be with doing that. I see the immediate problem as being how to graft that second stator and it's rectifier/regulator into the KZ's wiring harness. Maybe both regulators need to be brought over from the ZN so they can coordinate together, but after some of those prices Kawboy quoted, NOT ME!

OK, I have a question for any of you who have broken into the innards of the 1300 engine. Are the right and left covers (pix below) exposed to engine oil, or are they "dry" covers?