M-Unit Blue wiring

I have tested the fan, the relay connections and the switch independently and they all work, so once properly connected, it should work.

The main reason to go through the M-unit is to be able to program the fan to run on for longer after shutting down.... but thinking about it; if powered straight from the battery, when the radiator is 95C or higher, the switch will keep on running the fan even after the ignition has been switched off! (Doh!)

So thank you Kawboy for educating me (again, I've lost count!!)! That solves the issue!

Onwards....

Next: battery box creation attempt no 2!:S

Paul

Battery box no 2 was also an unmitigated disaster, but I am now on V3 and subject to no welding disasters it is looking promising.

Anyway, back to the wiring.

I am using the M-Button which drastically reduces the amount of wiring to/from the M-Unit. The button sends the input signals from all the switches at the handlebars via one wire to the M-Unit. The installation guide states that the wire and the button can be affected by being close to high voltage items such as coils, and it states further that the button needs to be inside the handlebars for protection. It says nothing about protecting the wire.

But there is no way I can route this wire back to the M-Unit other than within 10cm of the coils, so here's me thinking that if I route the wire through the outside metal sleeve of an old clutch cable and I ground said sleeve, it will provide a "Faraday cage' for the wire, just like the handlebars provide similar protection to the button.

Am I a "smart, out-of-the-box" thinker, .... or an ignoramus? :S

..... don't answer that, just let me know if the old clutch cable idea will work.

Paul

Sounds feasible to me. If you connect the screen that you create around the cable to ground (battery -ve) it should hopefully prevent interference

Regarding "wire". The best wire available is that used for aircraft. When I did a 100% restoration on my Pilatus glider it included new and additional instrumentation. I didn't need to buy any wire as I simply went to one of the Aircraft repair businesses on the airport and they let me remove what I needed from a wrecked Bell heli. This wire is of the highest quality, thin and flame/fire proof. Because it only comes with a white insulation, each wire usually has a # embossed on it for circuit I.D., but various colored shrink-tubing can be used on each end of each wire to color code for the various circuits, for easier identification. It's the small diameter that would be the distinct advantage for a custom wiring harness.