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Electrical
Oil Light
- toyinau2
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10 years 10 months ago #1799
by toyinau2
Oil Light was created by toyinau2
Hello all have an issue with the oil light not going off have checked oil pressure with Gauge ( good ) have changed sender still the same, have earthed out sender wire light works as it should but when i run the bike light dose no go off .
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- Toddh
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10 years 10 months ago #1800
by Toddh
KZ1300 A-4 4TH 1300 IN 30 YEARS
KZ1000 D-3/ Z1R
ZX900 GPZ A-3
KZ750 E-1
K1200GT
CB750F 1978
Replied by Toddh on topic Oil Light
Hello:
Is your bike an A-3 or an A-4?
If so, the US and Canadian models have an oil level warning indicator, along with the oil pressure sender. Added in 1981.
Troubleshooting guide for oil Pressure/ Level Warning System is listed on page 319 (supplement section) of the Kaw shop manual. Figure N58 takes you through a thorough troubleshooting tree to find out if your light is related to pressure, or oil level.
You did not mention if your oil level is at normal level. If it is, you may have an oil level indicating problem, not related to oil pressure.
Once in a while, if I am a quart low, my oil light comes on, but it's related to oil level, not oil pressure. Single light for both systems.
TO RULE OUT PRESSURE, THIS BEING THE MOST IMPORTANT:
**: Possible relief valve (Stuck open or closed) If pressure is above 85psi, your relief valve is stuck in the closed position. If the oil pressure is much lower than 63psi, at more than 5,000RPM, your relief valve is stuck open.
**: With a warm engine, your pressure should read 28PSI @ 4,000RPM.
**: Do you have battery voltage going to the oil pressure switch? Does the light turn on with the key on? (as an initial self-test?) Engine not running. You could have a defective oil pressure switch. Ohm out the switch (on the 1ohm range) Engine stopped, ohm meter should read zero ohms. When the engine is more than idle RPM, Ohm meter reads off, or infinity. (Switch open) thereby keeping the light off.
IF YOUR LIGHT IS RELATED TO QUANTITY:
**: Oil level sensor inspection. sensor installed, remove the RH side cover, disconnect the yellow lead beneath the regulator rectifier, which connects the oil level sensor to the oil level warning light.
a:Should read battery voltage from the main harness.
b: ohm out the sensor with the 1ohm scale, with the connector removed from the main elec harness. + lead on the yellow sensor wire, - lead to ground, should read 0.5 Ohms with correct oil level. If oil level is empty, the ohm reading should be infinity. (OPEN)
c: is the oil level warning light relay (Green connector in the tail piece) connected? There are procedures to test that relay in the Kawasaki Shop manual.
Hope this helps, keep us posted.
Todd.
The manual provided other tests but the ones listed above are the highlights.
Is your bike an A-3 or an A-4?
If so, the US and Canadian models have an oil level warning indicator, along with the oil pressure sender. Added in 1981.
Troubleshooting guide for oil Pressure/ Level Warning System is listed on page 319 (supplement section) of the Kaw shop manual. Figure N58 takes you through a thorough troubleshooting tree to find out if your light is related to pressure, or oil level.
You did not mention if your oil level is at normal level. If it is, you may have an oil level indicating problem, not related to oil pressure.
Once in a while, if I am a quart low, my oil light comes on, but it's related to oil level, not oil pressure. Single light for both systems.
TO RULE OUT PRESSURE, THIS BEING THE MOST IMPORTANT:
**: Possible relief valve (Stuck open or closed) If pressure is above 85psi, your relief valve is stuck in the closed position. If the oil pressure is much lower than 63psi, at more than 5,000RPM, your relief valve is stuck open.
**: With a warm engine, your pressure should read 28PSI @ 4,000RPM.
**: Do you have battery voltage going to the oil pressure switch? Does the light turn on with the key on? (as an initial self-test?) Engine not running. You could have a defective oil pressure switch. Ohm out the switch (on the 1ohm range) Engine stopped, ohm meter should read zero ohms. When the engine is more than idle RPM, Ohm meter reads off, or infinity. (Switch open) thereby keeping the light off.
IF YOUR LIGHT IS RELATED TO QUANTITY:
**: Oil level sensor inspection. sensor installed, remove the RH side cover, disconnect the yellow lead beneath the regulator rectifier, which connects the oil level sensor to the oil level warning light.
a:Should read battery voltage from the main harness.
b: ohm out the sensor with the 1ohm scale, with the connector removed from the main elec harness. + lead on the yellow sensor wire, - lead to ground, should read 0.5 Ohms with correct oil level. If oil level is empty, the ohm reading should be infinity. (OPEN)
c: is the oil level warning light relay (Green connector in the tail piece) connected? There are procedures to test that relay in the Kawasaki Shop manual.
Hope this helps, keep us posted.
Todd.
The manual provided other tests but the ones listed above are the highlights.
KZ1300 A-4 4TH 1300 IN 30 YEARS
KZ1000 D-3/ Z1R
ZX900 GPZ A-3
KZ750 E-1
K1200GT
CB750F 1978
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- toyinau2
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10 years 10 months ago #1819
by toyinau2
Replied by toyinau2 on topic Oil Light
Thanks for the info all Back into the shed i go lol
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- strate6
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- On An Adventure Before Dementia ! !
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10 years 10 months ago - 10 years 10 months ago #1820
by strate6
Why Have Four When You Can Have Six ?
Replied by strate6 on topic Oil Light
Those oil level sensors have always been problematic.
They fitted them with the deeper sump models (A3 on) after K had too many seizure problems with the shallow sump (oil pan) fitted to the A1 & A2 models.
They wanted to make sure nobody could say it just all of a sudden "seized" and by fitting a oil level gauge it would warn you in advance.............which in principle is a good idea, but the level mechanism inside the sump is not good. If you accelerate hard, you can suddenly get the oil light coming on.........which can nearly give you a heart attack !!!!
My advice is just disconnect it & look at your oil level window before & after each ride as that CANNOT lie !
Pete F
They fitted them with the deeper sump models (A3 on) after K had too many seizure problems with the shallow sump (oil pan) fitted to the A1 & A2 models.
They wanted to make sure nobody could say it just all of a sudden "seized" and by fitting a oil level gauge it would warn you in advance.............which in principle is a good idea, but the level mechanism inside the sump is not good. If you accelerate hard, you can suddenly get the oil light coming on.........which can nearly give you a heart attack !!!!
My advice is just disconnect it & look at your oil level window before & after each ride as that CANNOT lie !
Pete F
Why Have Four When You Can Have Six ?
Last edit: 10 years 10 months ago by strate6.
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- toyinau2
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10 years 10 months ago #1844
by toyinau2
Replied by toyinau2 on topic Oil Light
Good idea Pete i think thats the way i will go .It must have been the start of the idiot Lights what ever happened to common sense Drrrrrr Check the oil water lights and Tyres .
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