Getting back into the project; wiring/IGN question

I hadn't touched my KZ1300 build in probably 10 months until today. My garage was simply too full for me to comfortably work on the bike, so this year I built a new shop (completed in April). I've just now caught up to most of the organization and fabrication I've had to do and today I took the cover off my KZ again!

When I shelved the project I think I had the wiring sussed: I stripped out the factory harness and made a new one, eliminating all circuits but fan, lights, main, and start. Thing is, now I have a question about the MAIN switch.

I tried to replicate the factory fuse block as closely as possible while minimizing wiring, and so my fuses line up with what the factory used.

For MAIN I have a purple wire running from the 30A fuse (W/B from the factory) to a toggle switch at the ad-hoc dash/control board. From the toggle switch I have another short Y/G wire with a male spade connector. This is where I'm confused. That male spade connector lands right where there's a female spade connector on the same wire, from the (-) side of my AW82 coils (P and then Y at the resistor -- since eliminated -- from the factory). However, I have *another* Y/G wire with a male spade connector that lands there, though, this one coming from Y/R at the igniter.

Summary: I have two male spades (+30A, igniter) and one female spade (coil common) of the same wire color at the same place.

So why do I have two male spades there? I don't reuse wire color without a good reason, and I don't use spades without a good reason either (I've been using Anderson Power Pole connectors on this build). Looking at the factory diagram, I'm not quite sure what's going on with the igniter. How is the igniter powered? It has to be through the Y/R wire since the other wires are to the coils (and to ground).

So then are the coils powered by the Y/R wire (which should be on + or -?), and the igniter serves as a ground interrupt on each leg of the leads to the coils?

On the factory diagram, the 30A fuse powers the main switch (now gone) and then the ignition switch (also gone). Where does that 30A go? Should it connect to *both* coil common AND igniter? If that's the case, I have no idea why I used spades there.

I know I had a plan, and I was ready to test-fire the engine before I got sidelined. (Well, more appropriately I was ready to test-fire the engine but I put fluids in it and found some leaks and didn't get a chance to fire it up, but the wiring was done.)

I'm sorry if this is unclear, but I'm trying to pick up the thread of my build and am trying to get back in the correct headspace. I did leave myself wiring notes, but for some reason didn't address this in them.

As for the new shop, though -- it's freaking awesome!

i.imgur.com/Er5sdjw.jpg

(And thanks, folks, for reading!)

Wish I could help you. It must be tricky when you deviate from a standard wiring loom. Surely if you study the wiring diagram, you can determine which components are inter connected.
I had not heard of those Power Pole connectors before. They look very neat.

Hope you work it out, and that somebody else chimes in.

I have to agree with biltonjim - Somewhat confusing to me as well. With your addition of a toggle-switch(?), new wiring colors, elimination of the Ballast-Resistor and ??? - I can't follow your description either. As best as I can see however, Power to the igniter comes from the engine "kill" switch, in several schematics I've looked at.

Nice job on the shop. Looks like about 20 x 30 ft ?? I see room for a lathe, a milling machine, a camshaft grinder :whistle: ...... And it's a dedicated shop to all things fun and not shared with the lawnmower, snowblower garden tools and the wife's car. I'm guessing you live rural and have the space for a standalone Man Shop??

Have to agree with Scotch and Jim. It's hard to follow the logic.

One thing I did to help make troubleshooting electrical problems easier was to take an electronic copy of the wiring diagram into Staples/Business Depot and I got them to blow it up to 11" x 17" and then I had that copy laminated. Not when i go to troubleshoot electrical, I can mark up the wiring diagram with a dry eraseable marker. After I'm finished troubleshooting, I can wipe the drawing clean and hang it up on the wall like shop art.

Great idea Kawboy!! I WILL do that!

StanG wrote: Great idea Kawboy!! I WILL do that!

In your case Stan, that 11" X 17" laminated electrical drawing would make a great place mat for the kitchen table. That way you could troubleshoot the wiring while chowing down on your tofu.