Fan Switch option

My manual fan-switch has been located descretely behind the left side of the head-light along with a head-light "kill" switch. A small bracket supported both and was mounted on the inside of the signal-light stem. The switches were descrete but a bit akward with gloves and they required leaning forward to reach.

The self cancelling turn-signal on/off switch is now my "Manual" fan switch. I never liked or used the signal feature any-way!

The wiring is easy.

Under the tank are two plugs. A "6-pin" orange/brown/blue/BLUE-yellow/RED-yellow RED-black. This connects to switches #1, #2 and #3 in the wiring scematic for an '80/Canadian/U.S.
and a "3 pin" gray/green/yellow. This plug supplements the same switches.

With a meter and the schematic I removed the yellow wire from the "3-pin"plug on the switch side and soldered/shrink wrapped a ground ring to wire terminal which is secured by a ballast resistor screw. This grounds one side of the former signal cancell switch. The "3-pin" plug is reconnected.

Same procedure for the brown wire of the "6-pin" on the switch end of the plug which connects to the thermo fan switch (right-side of thermostat cover). Obviously this wire already existed and was simply rerouted.

The former "Automatic Turn Signal Cancel Switch" now activitates the fan relay and is far more suitable to me for many reasons




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Interesting mod there Scotch. Keeps the stock look and achieves a purpose without adding dorky switches.
Two questions.
When you want the fan on, do you have to hold down the signal cancel switch?

If not, then how is the fan turned off?

Interesting Q, KB!
The Switch is a typical on/off type. In it's designed application it appears to supply power via the brown wire from the ignition switch to the signal control unit (yellow wire). So the answer to your question is: when flipped "up" (on) you have the fan on - flipped "down' - no fan. Keeping in mind the actuation of the fan is actually via the fan relay, which is the only reason this small switch with its tiny contacts is suitable for this purpose.
The 12 volt flashing LED installed with the previous switch/location indicates when the fan is on - either manually or via the thermostatic fan control switch. The toughest part of this mod was getting the pictured timed to the LED flashing !

Mine came with the fan wired to the kill switch ,I like being in control of the fan myself with my thumb while riding and cooling down before I think it's going to get too hot..bit paranoid after cooking old engines in the past..a flashing led would be good so I don't leave it on after walking away!

A supplement to the fan switch mod.

If the idea appeals to you but you don't want to lose the auto signal cancel feature the additional wiring is simple.
Almost everyone has removed the fuel solenoid valve . If the owner who removed the solenoid was smart enough to leave the harness plug intact, "Power" + (brown) and "Ground" - (Black/yellow) on this "4-pin" plug can be used to power the Signal Cancel Unit.

A large blade connector that fits into the "6-pin" connector can be soldered to a short wire (Brown if have this color) and inserted in place of where the original Brown (+) wire was removed. On the other end a small blade connector can be soldered and inserted into the Brown wire connection of the fuel solenoid plug. Again: this is your + power feed. Similarly a lead from the solenoid plug (Black/yellow) can be used to connect to the "3-pin" plug from where the yellow wire was removed. This is now the "ground" (-) for the control unit. If you have the fuel solenoid valve the plug and two of the wires wires can be cut off and used for an easy, reliable connection to where the solenoid plugged into and appears "factory". The auto cancel module is now "ON" full time !
Refer to the original pictures for further clarity/confusion ! :silly: