Starting Motor Clutch Query

Well, I got so fed up with constant niggles, I chickened out and bought another Starter Clutch / Sub Rotor assy complete, off evilBay, for a bargain. I fitted it today and she works perfectly

But I do have one last silly question: anyone any thoughts ?
If I torque up to the specified 94lb/ft., my reduction gear no longer has free movement and will not turn; almost as of its stuck to the crank ??
But if I remove the thin spacer (0.3mm I think) that sits betweem the starter clutch unit and reduction gear, I get full movement at full torgue setting, and a fully functioning assembly.

Not sure why, or if I dare ditch the thin spacer ?

Finally starting to hope I might get to run her this Summer :woohoo:

Cheers Tim

Hello Tim:

Is the replacement Clutch the same as your old one?

What year is your bike?

Take a look at the illustrated parts breakdown per your year and model and do a comparison for order of installation.

Can you tell if the engine cover was ever changed? Are there any obstructions in the engine case or engine cover pin sockets?

Regards.

T

Todd, hi
My bike is a 1979 A1 model, from engine and frame numbers, it appears to be a very early production run (one of the first 400 made: probably before they fixed all the gremlins )

The replacement starter clutch and sub-rotor assembly is an exact match for my old unit, and from the parts diagrams / illustrations I have (for the initial US 1979 A1) all does seem as it should be.

Re the engine cover; again all looks as it should (albeit, its been retro chromed) with no obstructions.

Cheers Tim

When you say Sub-Rotor, is yours fitted with the second stator on the Left?

You may have done this, but take the rotor back off and see if the starter clutch gear free-wheels, without that rotor installed.

Take it one step at a time as you assemble the clutch, to see if you can determine what is causing that gear to not freewheel.

Not a good thing if it doesn't freewheel, bad for the starter.

T.