Starting Motor Clutch Query
- Tonto
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Starting Motor Clutch Query
10 years 10 months ago
Guys, I recently bought my Z13 from a genuine previous owner: he told me that the bike had developed a starting problem a few weeks earlier and that a Starting Motor Clutch repair kit had been fitted: I have the invoice to show work done.
But cut forward 3 weeks and my Zed will not start; sounds like the gear wheels are slipping on the starting motor - bugger
Can anyone confirm if this is this a known fault with the Z13 (or just my misfortune), and importantly; is it an easy fix.
Any advice greatly appreciated. Cheers Tim
But cut forward 3 weeks and my Zed will not start; sounds like the gear wheels are slipping on the starting motor - bugger
Can anyone confirm if this is this a known fault with the Z13 (or just my misfortune), and importantly; is it an easy fix.
Any advice greatly appreciated. Cheers Tim
"Success consists of going from failure to failure without the loss of enthusiasm " Winston Churchill.
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- KZQ
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Re: Starting Motor Clutch Query
10 years 10 months ago - 10 years 10 months ago
Starter clutches are troublesome on these old Kaws. Fortunately the repair on the 1300 is not difficult. It's not a bad idea to check the starter but your description sounds as if your starter clutch is slipping. If you review the section on the starter in the FAQ you'll find a pretty good description of the clutch. There is one inaccuracy in the FAQ: The springs do push the rollers against the boss but it's really the ramp design that provides the grip. Once the engine spins up the rollers are pulled back by centripetal acceleration compressing the springs. Most of the time replacing the rollers, springs and the cups is sufficient to get the clutch working again.
Best of luck.
Bill
Best of luck.
Bill
1947 Indian Chief, 1968 BSA Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 Kawasaki W3, 1976 KZ900 A4, 1979 KZ750 B4, 1979 KZ750 B4 Trike, 1980 KZ550, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 1985 Kawasaki ZN1300, 1987 Yamaha Trail Way, 2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1981 GL 1100, 2009 Yamaha RoadLiner S
Last edit: 10 years 10 months ago by KZQ.
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- Tonto
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Re: Starting Motor Clutch Query
10 years 10 months ago
Bill
Thanks for the advice: I'll have a shot at it this weekend, fingers crossed she'll soon be back in working order.
Cheers Tim
Thanks for the advice: I'll have a shot at it this weekend, fingers crossed she'll soon be back in working order.
Cheers Tim
"Success consists of going from failure to failure without the loss of enthusiasm " Winston Churchill.
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- Toddh
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Re: Starting Motor Clutch Query
10 years 10 months ago
Tim:
I just did my starter clutch a couple of weeks ago. Like Bill states, changing the roller and springs usually takes care of this problem. I would like to add the following.
a: Carefully inspect the heavy metal clutch housing. These have a tendency to crack and fracture (worst case scenario) I always take my clutch housing to a local machine shop and have them magna-flux to check for any unseen cracks. If it's cracked, the clutch housing can expand (While under a load) and in turn cause the rollers to not grip the reduction gear. Are the roller pockets damaged or show any unusual wear? It's ok to have some light wear marks from use, but no galling or gouges in the roller pocket. With the springs, pin, and roller in place, does it glide smoothly in and out of the pin bore? Are all of the machine surfaces getting engine oil lubrication?
b: is the bearing surface(roller surface) on the reduction gear damaged?
c: Are all of the parts installed correctly? As you disassemble the starter clutch, have a copy of the parts breakdown from the microfiche with you. This way you can see if the person who re-assembled the clutch last time, did it in the right sequence. In years past, I have seen missing thrust washers and spacers. Also the thick thrust washer between the case half and reduction gear has a chamfered edge. the chamfer side faces the engine.
d: if you have a Sub Alternator, while you are in behind the engine cover, Ohm out the Stator and repair as needed.
Parts for a light rebuild. All prices are list, and are available through Kaw. or through other after market suppliers like Z1 Enterprises.
92122-004 roller X3 6.62ea
92081-110 spring X3 3.22ea
92043-087 pin X3 5.32ea
11009-1090 gasket X1 11.94ea
TOP OFF OIL LEVEL
It helps to surgically clean the gasket material off of the case half and engine cover. Also use black RTV (Silicone) on the rubber stator cover grommet. Make sure you get all of the old silicone off before reassembling.
Regards.
I just did my starter clutch a couple of weeks ago. Like Bill states, changing the roller and springs usually takes care of this problem. I would like to add the following.
a: Carefully inspect the heavy metal clutch housing. These have a tendency to crack and fracture (worst case scenario) I always take my clutch housing to a local machine shop and have them magna-flux to check for any unseen cracks. If it's cracked, the clutch housing can expand (While under a load) and in turn cause the rollers to not grip the reduction gear. Are the roller pockets damaged or show any unusual wear? It's ok to have some light wear marks from use, but no galling or gouges in the roller pocket. With the springs, pin, and roller in place, does it glide smoothly in and out of the pin bore? Are all of the machine surfaces getting engine oil lubrication?
b: is the bearing surface(roller surface) on the reduction gear damaged?
c: Are all of the parts installed correctly? As you disassemble the starter clutch, have a copy of the parts breakdown from the microfiche with you. This way you can see if the person who re-assembled the clutch last time, did it in the right sequence. In years past, I have seen missing thrust washers and spacers. Also the thick thrust washer between the case half and reduction gear has a chamfered edge. the chamfer side faces the engine.
d: if you have a Sub Alternator, while you are in behind the engine cover, Ohm out the Stator and repair as needed.
Parts for a light rebuild. All prices are list, and are available through Kaw. or through other after market suppliers like Z1 Enterprises.
92122-004 roller X3 6.62ea
92081-110 spring X3 3.22ea
92043-087 pin X3 5.32ea
11009-1090 gasket X1 11.94ea
TOP OFF OIL LEVEL
It helps to surgically clean the gasket material off of the case half and engine cover. Also use black RTV (Silicone) on the rubber stator cover grommet. Make sure you get all of the old silicone off before reassembling.
Regards.
KZ1300 A-4 4TH 1300 IN 30 YEARS
KZ1000 D-3/ Z1R
ZX900 GPZ A-3
KZ750 E-1
K1200GT
CB750F 1978
KZ1000 D-3/ Z1R
ZX900 GPZ A-3
KZ750 E-1
K1200GT
CB750F 1978
The following user(s) said Thank You: Tonto
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- Tonto
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Re: Starting Motor Clutch Query
10 years 10 months ago
Todd, thanks for this: I will be having a go at the weekend and your observations will be really helpful.
I know the bike had an issue and a supposed fix about 4 weesk ago, so I am hoping its a case of incorrect re-fit at that time: fingers crossed, but guess I will find out soon.
Cheers Tim
I know the bike had an issue and a supposed fix about 4 weesk ago, so I am hoping its a case of incorrect re-fit at that time: fingers crossed, but guess I will find out soon.
Cheers Tim
"Success consists of going from failure to failure without the loss of enthusiasm " Winston Churchill.
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- Tonto
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Re: Starting Motor Clutch - Nightmare continues !
10 years 9 months ago - 10 years 7 months ago
I thought I had fixed my Zed's Starter Clutch woes: on strip down the initial problem was that the three retaining screws had all worked very loose ! so re-fitted everything, re-torqued etc: but did think the thrust washer was thin and insignificant. But, she has fired up every day for the past 2 weeks two weeks
But alas, today on start up there was an intermittent and familiar slipping noise, coming from the starter clutch - Bugger - but she did start a few times.
But, I keep thinking about that poxy Thrust Washer: today I checked Kawasaki part microfiche lists, it states the washer should be 2.3mm thick: has anyone had issues with the thrust washer or can reccomend a source for a replacement, as they appear to be No Longer Available.
Cheers Tim
But alas, today on start up there was an intermittent and familiar slipping noise, coming from the starter clutch - Bugger - but she did start a few times.
But, I keep thinking about that poxy Thrust Washer: today I checked Kawasaki part microfiche lists, it states the washer should be 2.3mm thick: has anyone had issues with the thrust washer or can reccomend a source for a replacement, as they appear to be No Longer Available.
Cheers Tim
"Success consists of going from failure to failure without the loss of enthusiasm " Winston Churchill.
Last edit: 10 years 7 months ago by Tonto.
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