Generator cover cracked

As too many have learned:  It's those 2 bolt-bosses on the bottom of the cover that have a knack for cracking.  Just looking at them tells you why.  Very little "meat", there!  One of mine cracked many years ago and developed a weep.  Epoxy did the trick and lasted until last year when that weep turned into a leak.  More epoxy was not an option so I took the cover to a machine shop that specializes in Aluminum and S/S.    Before I took it there I washed it thoroughly with Lacquer thinner and "sneaked it  into the dishwasher to help ensure the best oil-free repair !  
I now tighten the cover leaving those 2 bottom bolts loose, 'til last !    Once the others are tightened I merely "snug" the trouble-makers and with a new gasket - all is well. The only sealer I use is on the stator wire wire-grommet.
Something I did: After the cover repair I did the the smoothing-out of the built-up areas and  taped a full sheet of "360" to a piece of glass and leveled the contact surface,  I've done the same for the float-bowls and my cam-cover (3 sheets for that).  Even with the smaller float-bowls it's surprising to see the Highs/Lows.  Doesn't take much work and ensures a perfect seal with a dry gasket.
 

Okay, thanks everyone.  Regardless of the patch, I'm inclined to completely remove the cover and get it repaired correctly so that I have peace of mind on the road instead of periodically dabbing it with my finger to check for oil seepage.

An update: I took the cover to a local, old school welder.  He said that the crack was too recessed (in a corner) for him to get at.  He used a vibrating tool and shaved the surface of the cover at the crack both inside and out to rough it up.  I then purchased Permatex 'Steel Reinforced Cold Weld 14600' good for 300 continuous degrees and suitable for aluminum among other metals.  I followed the instructions to the tee and it felt like metal upon curing, much more firm that the JB Quick Weld I had used.  Using a flat surface, I shaved a warped section near the crack to flatten the sealing surface.  Though the gasket was tore in three places by this time, I sealed it with Permatex Red and it is holding.

That being said, some idiot forgot to turn off the fuel petcock and flooded the cylinders so I'm having to deal with that this Easter morning.

He and she have risen!

Neville wrote:

Yes, just the 5 allen bolts - the plate keeps the wires away from the rotor attached to the crankshaft.  After removing the bolts, pull the rubber grommet out from its channel to release the whole assembly.  Important to use some liquid gasket around all of the sealing faces of the grommet when reassembling or it will leak oil.

New grommets are available....