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"Running-in after rebore"

  • Phil
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10 years 9 months ago #1918 by Phil
Replied by Phil on topic "Running-in after rebore"
Hi Pete, no cheap mineral car oil doesn't have 'friction modifiers' in it which is what causes wet bike clutches to slip. The more expensive car oils do.

Only dead fish go with the flow

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  • strate6
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10 years 9 months ago #1919 by strate6
Replied by strate6 on topic "Running-in after rebore"
Phil,

Interesting........

Can you name the brand & type you used as its useful to know ?

Pete F

Why Have Four When You Can Have Six ?

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  • Dinosaur
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10 years 9 months ago #1924 by Dinosaur
Replied by Dinosaur on topic "Running-in after rebore"
Thanks Pete F/Pete 1958/Phil,valuable info.I suppose it applies to all bikes/cars after this kind of surgery,Paul

Paul

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  • Phil
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10 years 9 months ago #1925 by Phil
Replied by Phil on topic "Running-in after rebore"

strate6 wrote: Phil,

Interesting........

Can you name the brand & type you used as its useful to know ?

Pete F

From memory it was Wilkinson's economy 20/50, about £10 for 5 litres, but I would think any supermarket own-brand 20/50 mineral car oil would be OK. Have a look on the back of the container & if it says 'energy conserving' then it's got friction modifiers in it which wet clutches don't like. I figured that as I was going to be dropping the oil out after only 500 miles it wasn't worth spending the money on a bike-specific oil. All oils have to meet a minimum spec (SG or SH I think from memory) so it's adequate for the short length of time it's in the bike ;)

Only dead fish go with the flow

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10 years 9 months ago #1930 by zoso
Replied by zoso on topic "Running-in after rebore"
I've successfully used Halfords "classic" 20/50 mineral car oil - it comes in a retro metal can also !!
Didn't have any problems with clutch slip in the XS1100 or the Z13's with the Halfords oil.
Keep away from Castrol GTX though - it's NO use at all. ;)

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