1979 kz1300 clutch cable connection and operation

so, the gasket was leaking and i decided to replace it...
i now half wish, that i didn't.....

after consulting my very vague edition of the manual,
i went ahead and cleaned up and replaced with new gasket.
connected it all up and torqued up the new allen key bolts...
easy peasy.....i think...........................ha.

i then went to use the clutch only to find i had none, despite trying to adjust. (see video)

looks like again.....i 've stuffed up somewhere and there is nowhere in this manual
that shows where i may have gone wrong......or i have simply overlooked.

can any one out there in the z1300 mechanical world, assist into pointing out what i may have missed please?

i've enclosed two links showing this and on one i have labelled the main elements 1 to 5 for easy reference...

Pretty hard to mess up here. I'm going to guess that the new gasket was thicker than the previous gasket and that would have moved the clutch cover out a bit.
I think you just need to adjust the clutch actuator screw to get things "back in order."
Loosen the lock nut on the actuator and turn the actuator screw in until you feel resistance then lock up the lock nut.

yeah thanks.
its like i have no clutch.
there is no bite or return at the handle.
im at a loss and ive done everything possible that i can see according
to the manual....
maybe i need to change the spring?
the actuator screw is what holds the end of the cable? right?
donr that....

I see you still have questions.. I am with Kawboy. The adjustment screw seems to be far out. When actuating the clutch, it seems to be going in but doing nothing.

A question I have - did you remove anything from the inside? The push rod? If so, is the steel ball (part of the assembly) inserted?

You need to put the bike on center stand - rear wheel off the ground. It should spin freely in neutral. The left cover should be in place before any adjustments. Have adjustment on the cable (both sides) set so the cable is not tight. When done, loosen the adjustment nut then back off the adjustment screw (bolt if you wish). When loose - screw it back in until feeling resistance. 0pen the oil filling cap and look inside the at the clutch. Do the plates move when pulling the clutch? Does the wheel spin by hand when in a gear? You will need to play with it 'by ear', but the general idea is to have a snag fit between the adjusting screw and the clutch push rod. If too tight - it will keep the clutch slightly permanently disengaged and it will slip. If too loose - there will be not enough play on the cable to make the handlebar lever travel enough to fully activate/deactivate the clutch. You will have constant engagement and hard time keeping the bike free when in gear and clutch lever pulled it.

So... to recap. The push rod and ball must be in. The cover installed. Screw the adjusting screw in until you can see and feel it actuates the clutch. Back off 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Adjust the lower adjustment on the cable so the linkage actuating the adjustment screw has just enough travel to easily actuate but be not loose (pretty much on contact). Then - adjust the lever on the handlebar so it doesn't have too much travel as well. Check how the wheel feels, readjust the cable for more or less travel. Start the bike in neutral (on center stand) and see how the wheel behaves. Put in gear - see if the wheel is free. Release the lever and see again. There might be some drag on the wheel when in gear and clutch lever pulled in, but you should be able to easily stop it with your hand. Then - put the bike on the ground and see how it runs. More tweaking will come later, like if at stop and neutral or clutch lever pulled in the bike will have tendency to pull forward - the adjustment is too tight. If slipping at higher rpm's - the clutch needs to bite harder. But that's later.

Stan makes a good point. If the push rod (item #15)came out then it is possible the ball bearing (item #27)fell out as well. It's 3/8" diameter and would account for your troubles here. Looking at the first video again, I don't see the actuator ramping in at all which tells me that possibly something is missing (likely the ball bearing only if the push rod fell out and you put the push rod back in not knowing about the ball bearing).

the push rod and steel ball assembly wasn't touched.
i have just now decided to crack open the holding bolt and undo this
assembly, only to make sure all 3 ball bearings are present.
the video shows all is ok, but then again im not sure as i dont know this bike and how it works....
i will go back and torque this properly once i work this out...