1981 KZ1300 A3 make over

it will make no difference which plug style you use

Scotch - that's essentially what I wanted to hear My worry was the MSD spark plug boots have a resistor or anything else soldered in there under the rubber. I know the 'little screwed on' purpose, was just wondering if this is a preferred style. It seems to connect in a very solid way, perhaps good for off road bikes?

Below is a photo of what I used on the A4 (minus the leads which I got from Germany). I think I will just cut off the MSD boots and screw on the NGK boots. The red leads will stay for now - except I might shrink wrap some black tubes on them after the plugs. Just for the color! haha And in the future, I will get some of the silicone leads from Helmut (IF ordering anything else at the same time), and replace the red leads at the coils.

I wonder if anyone used COP's on KZ1300. I asked it before, just asking again. (Coils Over Plugs).

Not much of an update today, except a quick check of the valves clearances. All done by the book.



First I inserted a protective cover for the chain tunnel (as on page 281 in the manual). Next removed the old gasket. I am puzzled again, as it looked stock and as if never removed. Similar to the left engine cover, and gaskets on my A4 which were never touched for sure. But who knows.



Next the spark plugs came out, then the right side engine cover came off. All looks good and pristine. The alternator is like new! I'm very happy.

So, I did the T, 1 and 2 marks, and back to T and repeat 1 and 2. Done.

The correct clearances per manual are: Exhaust 0.15 - 0.25 mm - Inlet 0.05 - 0.15 mm.
Here is what I read (mm):

#1 - E 0.20 ... I 0.04
#2 - E 0.20 ... I 0.07
#3 - E 0.34 ... I 0.07
#4 - E 0.25 ... I 0.13
#5 - E 0.20 ... I 0.13
#6 - E 0.25 ... I 0.04

Overall nothing drastic, except the #3 exhaust. I'm going to aim at having all mid-range: the exhausts at 0.20 mm and inlets at 0.10 mm. All marked bold are first to go.
I haven't checked yet what shims each valve has installed, as it was getting late. This will come next and soon. I want this cam cover sealed and tight on the engine again!

I would be wondering about #3 exhaust at .34 mm. Either there's a small piece of carbon holding the valve to seat open or something went wrong on the last shim clearance setup. I would spin the engine over on the starter for 10 - 15 seconds and then take the reading over and see if it changes, then account for the change if there is any.
There's always a compromise when setting up valve clearances. My goal is to set them to the widest clearance as possible. For me, I aim for .25 mm exhaust and .15 mm intake so looking at your readings.

#1 - E 0.20 ... I 0.04
#2 - E 0.20 ... I 0.07
#3 - E 0.34 ... I 0.07
#4 - E 0.25 ... I 0.13
#5 - E 0.20 ... I 0.13
#6 - E 0.25 ... I 0.04

#4 #6 E are perfect and I wouldn't touch

#1 #2 #5 E I would accept if I didn't have the next size smaller shims to work with, Otherwise I would change them out to get to .25 mm.

#1 #2 #3 #6 intake I would go 2 shims smaller to get to .14 mm and .17 mm clearance . I realize .17 mm is wide but given the choice between .17 mm and the next shim larger at .12 mm clearance, I would prefer .17 mm

#4 #5 intake are perfect and I wouldn't touch.

Thank you Kawboy. I've always wondered about which way to go - mid way or the wide end.. With your experience I will definitely lean your way and shoot for the widest clearance. The head on my A4 was also set towards the wide - I will be revisiting it soon.

The #3 exhaust, yes, that is a surprise. I will turn the engine a few times by hand for now and see what happens (in the process of removing the starter clutch so it's in the way). I will take care of all the other clearances and all else, then revisit the #3 after cranking the engine with the starter. The spark plug on the #3 looked good, and there is nothing weird visually going on. If nothing changes, I'd adjust it to 0.25 and let the engine run. I have a fully serviced spare cylinder head in great shape with all the seats freshly cut by hand ( and tested) by a local professional who had been also teaching about motorcycle mechanics and is an old classic bikes enthusiast, so I could always just swap the heads as a last resort and an easy quick fix. Except removing the old gaskets - that I don't like very much..

I'm really stoked to source the fuse box in a great shape and at a minimal cost. After cleaning and whitening the translucent cover it looks almost like new!
But one thing needs attention. I can fabricate a fix or a replacement, but is there a direct replacement part for this? I bet there should be, and one from an old fuse box of many Kawasaki's would fit right in. Problem is - I don't have any!

Anyone with a broken box containing these? Just need one! 0r can I get these somewhere?

PS. Still looking for ignition switch and seat lock. No key 0K.

Have you tried Princess Auto for glass fuse holder (block) and maybe take one out of that

maybe something like this could give you something to make work
www.princessauto.com/en/detail/automotiv...ock-fuse/A-p8801383e