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Low mile kz1300 where to start
- Dion
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with that mileage looking as it does idd,
fill tank with coke leave few days , buy POR 15 kit, follow instructions(this seals up the whole surface of the tank)
yes as Kawboy stated definitely clean carbs.
put both back on with fresh fuel and get it running
then drop oil/filter for new
buy seat cover off Ebay(simply stops any water getting to foam)
bleed out all brake fluids for new
then idd ride that sucker!!!
find any faults whilst enjoying it !
mate she is a great looking bike, why rush into a load of stuff that probably is completely unnecessary.
you can always check timing idler gear latter, and make suer eventually replace timing chain tensioner with ZZR1100 or such
if clutch is frozen whilst its running hold brakes on and kick it into gear , more often than not this will free it up
anyways thats my 2cents worth
Dion
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- Kawboy
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bluefan44 wrote: I'm also a fan of the manual impact driver for breaking loose Phillips head screws for the first time.
One like this
www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-...a-420785539586&psc=1
Sorry, there are normal phillips on this bike? Like the fittings and clamps while the engine is JIS? I didnt see a JIS head in that link.
edit: or i can just buy the short tip for it, duh.
You might have to do some research here. Possibly find a JIS tip or pull out a honing stone and fit the Phillips tip to a JIS screw.
Those manual impacts are a 1/2" socket drive and you can always adapt to the drive on a JIS tip.
I just love the manual impact for breaking loose the Phillips screws when then haven't been moved in many years. A couple of light taps with the hammer on the back of that impact driver and out they come. Better than stripping the head on the screw and then having to drill out the head.
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- giorgi3
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Anyway congratulations! Hope you have great success.
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- bluefan44
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The petcock even has plier markings where the original owner forced it to turn. Easy way to fix that?
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- StanG
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- Bucko
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bluefan44 wrote: The petcock even has plier markings where the original owner forced it to turn. Easy way to fix that?
I know why that happened! Turning that tap 'by hand' can be a real bee-auch. When I picked up my bike the tap wouldn't budge. I dissembled and cleaned out the tap body which improved things but it wasn't long before the tap was inoperable again. The internal valve is a bit of a plastic 'cone' and the design puts to much pressure on that cone making it very difficult to move the tap. Based on some advice on this form, I filed down the tang on the inside of the tap handle slightly to relieve some of the pressure on the cone (the tang fits into a slot on the plastic cone). The tap is operable now but still difficult to use while riding (but not impossible) - mostly because of it's awkward placement.
Hello from Canada's We(s)t coast.
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