Another basket case project, but with potentially a different end goal!

My friend said to that so I did that last night, but it didn’t do anything. Rear is fine now. Front handle still going to the bar.

Concentrating on electrics today, the parasitic draw was so bad it blew the 200mA fuse of my multimeter. I have isolated the wire that has the issue but that goes to the coils! Not sure what to do now or how to check what is wrong.

The rubber hose was not petrol resistant. I have replaced with Mercedes left over hose, should be ok.

Paul

Latest test results to find the potential parasitic draw:

When ignition off and the M-Unit connected, the draw is 0.1 on the 200mA scale. To me that is nothing and doesn't explain the battery going flat overnight. When ignition on, the wire that draws the most amps is from M-Unit (ignition out) connected to:

1) coils
2) ignition module (yellow/red)
3) speedo (the switched live wire)

If I take that wire off the M-Unit, the total draw with ignition on is 44, which I guess is the M-unit itself. If I connect:

1) coils, no extra draw
2) Ignition module, it jumps to 120
3) speedo, it jumps to 88

All three together it goes up to 164... no idea if that is normal. But crucially, when ignition is off, there is no draw... ?

I have reconnected everything and checked the parking light option (off) and also disabled the alarm. See what tomorrow brings.

Well, battery full this morning. All electrics working again.

I did some head scratching and I think I know what happened. The M-Unit starts up when you start up the app on your phone and get close to the bike. Then you press the starter twice to switch ignition on, then press again to start the engine.

Press twice to switch off and then twice again to switch off the ignition. But if you switch on/off with the key - which I was doing intermittently - you can leave the ignition on without realising. That will drain the battery.

I just have to make sure I switch the ignition off completely when messing around with the phone app and the keys. If I use one or the other, there is no issue.

I took the carbs off to address the slight vacuum leak I had between the carb rubbers. I took the opportunity to reset the mixture screws - all 2.5 turns out. It idles nicely and revs as well, but sometimes the revs still 'hang'. RH side carb is also spitting back fuel through the air filter on occasion. I have ordered a synch set, so when that comes I'll do that and see if that makes it better. It starts on the button though!

Also awaiting Triumph UK to re-open so I can order the brushed aluminium seat pan I need for the bobber seat I have been given. Currently it is sitting a bit low and too far back.

Front brakes still a mystery, but overall its getting there!

McBoney wrote: I will check, but I doubt it is that.

I connected the unit up a month ago and it held charge all that time. I think the trouble started when I wired up the coils correctly ... both terminals to positive leads rather than one positive and one to ground.

And here is another mystery? Colour change overnight of the petrol. It was clear yesterday and what’s in the tank is still clear.

I am charging the battery at the moment. I will try to connect everything back up tomorrow and see - one by one - which connection gives me a bad reading, if there is a bad one. ... after I checked the parking lights of course!

Cheers
Paul

Hi Paul,

Just a quick heads up. I had that exact same "Hi-Flow" fuel filter on mine and was plagued with running problems which I thought were down to the Suzuki vacuum tap I had installed. After putting a pingel back on I still had the same issues. When I checked flow from the fuel filter it was piss poor - a fraction of the flow rate without it. The bores in and out of the filter are of a reasonable size but the holes drilled through it to allow fuel to pass on either side of the filter are much smaller. I think this is because the hollow aluminum threaded center will be too weak if they were any larger?

Try fuel flow into a jar with and without that filter to be sure. I don't want anyone else tearing their hair out over a $10 P.o.S.

Looks like you have sorted the Dreaded Electrickery . Front Brake . It appears that you have fully covered every possibility , bleeding , tying back the lever etc . The only thing I can suggest , after having it happen to me , not Z1300 , was the seals passing in the Master Cylinder , and this after a re-build . I cannot remember if you re-built your Master Cylinder , or fitted as is . Like I said , suggestion .

I have to jump-in on the fuel-filter ! I'll also confirm: This style, as politely pointed out, is CRAP !
I won't bother with further details and issues. Just get rid of it !
Use this one. No problems - no issues, and inexpensive. Avoid a typical screw clamp. Use the spring-clamps typically included as they provide full and even circumferencial clamping force and won't chew-up the fuel line.
www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/carburato...rbs-act-up-too#16619