A3 Z1300 resto in Oz

no, I didn't..... .only changed my last reply.... dang.

Hi mate,

In case you run into trouble with your igniter, we have reproduced the original item (plug and play) in Finland. My mate runs an -81 A3 himself and we test all our igniters with his bike.

We also offer other 1300 items on our website: www.kawasaki1300parts.com

Check it out, hope you get the old lady up and running.

Cheers, Lare

LareNurminen wrote: Hi mate,

In case you run into trouble with your igniter, we have reproduced the original item (plug and play) in Finland. My mate runs an -81 A3 himself and we test all our igniters with his bike.

We also offer other 1300 items on our website: www.kawasaki1300parts.com

Check it out, hope you get the old lady up and running.

Cheers, Lare

Thanks Lare.
Hopefully I'll be ok and not need one. But if I do I'll get in touch with them.
Cheers.

Carbs cleaned/rebuilt and re-assembled. All good internally, no damage to anything, just plenty of varnish and red goo.




Is there a method to get the throttle sync closish before the carbs go back on the bike?

After rebuilding any set and when ready to install for sync'g I always set the throttles statically by supporting the carbs upright on a bench and shining a bright light into the throttle bores. My preference is to shine the light into the Engine-side and view through the Intake ends. Fold a 1/4" wide by 3" long piece of writing paper once along the long side to give you a two ply strip 1/8" wide. This paper spacer can be placed in the venturi on the top or bottom and the throttles allowed to close on it. An equal "sliver" of light can then be set for each carb. I don't tighten the lock-nuts at this stage. Do not use anything metallic to avoid damaging the critical edge of the throttle-plate. For myself this always seems to get the throttles close enough to one another to get the engine started and into a usable idle starting point. Sync per the manual. If after sync'g and tightening the adjusters you find the throttles slow to return to idle or sticking just above idle but they can be closed to idle by hand, then you likely have one or more Sync-adjusters turned down too tight (bottomed-out at the extent of their threads). This will require all the adjusters to be backed off 1/4 to 1/2 turn and re-sync'd. Then the spring in the connecting-tube can keep the Ball-joints tight as designed and with the freedom of movement to allow full closure, to the idle-stop. Hope this helps.

Update.
Big Bird lives!
Put the carbs back on, along with fuel solenoid (which doesn't work......) and fresh plugs tonight.
Removed solenoid and just ran straight from the tank.
Took a bit of persuading but got her started.
Sounds good, but needs fresh oil, the airbox put back on and a good sync to smooth her out.







Fair to say a bit of crap came out the zorst!!

Time to get stuck into her now I know she's a runner.