TOPIC:

having trouble loading pics...will try later

You talk about referencing the cam timing to the ignition timing and that's not the way to figure out the cam timing. you need to look at the reference material in the service manual. If you don't have a manual, go to the main page on this site and ENSURE that you're logged in. Down in the bottom right hand corner is the electromic copies of the service manual and the ZN supplement.
The cam timing is referenced to timing marks on the crankshaft on the right side of the crank, not timing marks on the pulser coils. The pulser coils need to be timed to the crank as well.

Back to basics and don't get frustrated. Check the cam timing and get that checked off the list. Then check the ignition timing. The ignition timing is run off of a separate timing chain, which Kawasaki should have called the ignition /water pump drive chain.

Keep us in the loop.
Good Luck !! Chances are you'll find the Ooopsy and learn a lot from this endevour. These engines are not that complicated but are definately different in a couple of areas. Very unique.

Ok so went back and referenced the info in the FAQ again and it talks about 17 links. I think I may have a exhaust cam that has skipped a couple of links??

FAQ reads:
Could you please tell me how many links on the camshaft chain should be counted between the front and back camshaft?

A: The manual says to count 17 chain links - BUT you count the chain link over the mark on the exhaust cam sprocket as number 1 and the link over the mark on the inlet cam sprocket as number 17 (so the actual length of chain between marks is 16 links). There are a few other things to be aware of: The crankshaft should have cylinders 1 and 6 at TDC - depending on the model, line up the "T" mark on the alternator rotor either vertically against a mark or horizontally to the front against the crankcase joint (I think vertically on a 1984 model). If in doubt, check it by poking something down the spark plug hole.

That question in the FAQ should have answered by telling you to go to the service manual. You need to see the 2 pictures on page 67 to understand the markings on the intake cam and the marking on the exhaust cam. The 2 pics also show the proper count of the links depending on whether the timing marks are under the inner links or the outer links. Maybe they should have referenced the chain pins instead. Anyway, pull up the page in the service manual. It also indicates that the timing mark on the crankshaft is to line up with half joint of the crankcase. Checking with a screwdriver to confirm top dead center on 1 and 6 is not a bad idea either.

If the cams skipped a couple of teeth then you really need to check the cam chain tensioner. Which do you have, the automatic self adjuster or the aftermarket manual tensioner? The stock self adjusting tensioner have history of failing and if it did back off, that would explain what happened here.

When you do these timing checks, ensure that you are rotating the crank clockwise. If you rotate counterclockwise and check and there slop in the timing chain, your interpretation will be incorrect.

If your exhaust cam jumped a couple of teeth thats 40 degrees out and most likely you've bent some valves. Once you get the timing sorted out, you probably need to check your compression before going any further. If your bent valves, you'll be tearing off the cylinder head before going further.

Keep us in the loop. We'll help any way we can.
KB

Good news - got the bike up and running.

Turns out the issue seems to have been a combination of an incorrect ( slightly out ) cam timing and
what I suspect was the main issue which was incorrect coil wiring sequence.

Thanks for all the website article contributorss, advice and encouragement to keep going and the end result was very satisfying.

AWESOME !! Another beast making noise !!