TOPIC:

strate6 wrote: You dont need to be at TDC.

Just make sure the bike is in a safe solid position and in gear.

Remove the old tensioner very carefully loosening both bolts evenly (not one out then the other) then throw it in the middle of a lake.

After cutting 10mm off the spring inside the new tensioner body, push the tensioner plunger all the way BACK INSIDE the body.

Now fit the tensioner body very carefully tightening both bolts evenly (leaving the spring, pin,copper washer and bolt out of the body).

Once the tensioner body is in position, slip the spring inside, then the pin in the middle of the spring. Now have the washer and bolt ready to push against the spring and get onto the first few threads of the tensioner body (this can be a little tricky)so take your time.

As you now begin to tighten the bolt into the end of the tensioner body, you will hear the plunger ratchet begin to push its way out of the body and against the tensioner arm inside the engine.

Job done !

Pete F
UK

Hi, where did the idea of cutting the 10 mm come from ????? as some folks seem to say just bolt the new one on !!! i'm confused.

Phil,

Quite simple explanation.

Many years ago when it was first realised the ZZR type tensioner was a direct fit for the 1300/6, someone in one of the clubs had the ability to measure the presssure the original spring in the original tensioner produced against the tensioner arm inside the engine.
They then did the same exercise for the ZZR tensioner and found it was slightly stronger. Once 10mm was cut off the ZZR spring, the pressure was equal to the 1300/6 tensioner.
This means the pressure on the tensioner arm is NOT increased when the spring is cut..........yet I do know many other owners who have not cut the spring and not had any diverse results to date.

Hope that explains it for you ?

Pete F
UK

strate6 wrote: You dont need to be at TDC.

Just make sure the bike is in a safe solid position and in gear.

Remove the old tensioner very carefully loosening both bolts evenly (not one out then the other) then throw it in the middle of a lake.

After cutting 10mm off the spring inside the new tensioner body, push the tensioner plunger all the way BACK INSIDE the body.

Now fit the tensioner body very carefully tightening both bolts evenly (leaving the spring, pin,copper washer and bolt out of the body).

Once the tensioner body is in position, slip the spring inside, then the pin in the middle of the spring. Now have the washer and bolt ready to push against the spring and get onto the first few threads of the tensioner body (this can be a little tricky)so take your time.

As you now begin to tighten the bolt into the end of the tensioner body, you will hear the plunger ratchet begin to push its way out of the body and against the tensioner arm inside the engine.

Job done !

Pete F
UK

Job done, however having read your instructions again I had the body ,the spring, the copper washer, and the bolt...where is the "pin"? I cut the spring and refitted as it came apart but didn't see one.

charlie9670 wrote:

Job done, however having read your instructions again I had the body ,the spring, the copper washer, and the bolt...where is the "pin"? I cut the spring and refitted as it came apart but didn't see one.

the pin slides inside the spring, about 40mm long ish. i would assume its to keep the spring straight

I'll maybe take it off again to check if its there or not

Exactly as Kwak1261 states, it MUST be used to keep the spring straight !

Pete F
UK