swing arm installation

Hi all,

The dreaded swing arm topic again....

We all know taking it out, including the pins is a royal pain, even though I managed OK. But putting them back in is turning out to be an even bigger pain. Or I am doing something wrong (more likely!).

Putting the pins in seems to need more force than pushing them out. I did sand the hole in the frame and applied some grease, but still it needed a number of fairly hard whacks with a hammer to get the first one in.

Then I tried to fit the inner bearing section onto the pin and it doesn't seem to fit! I know it needs to be tight, but again, it seems to need forceful hammer blows to go over the pin. At this stage I have not done that - decide to take advice. Please see pic as to what I mean by it not going over the pin. NB, the frame is on its side.



As the manual is pretty vague about how to do this, my plan was to fit both bearings to the swing arm, plus the grease retention rings, and then fit the swing arm over the one pin that is currently in the frame. Then line it up and insert the other pin on the other side. But with everything needing so much force to come together I am afraid that I may misalign the swing arm and when (forcefully) inserting the second pin, and then damage the bearing...

Any advice on how to fit the swing arm without the risk of damaging anything? Is it all supposed to be this tight, needing force?

Maybe put the last pin in the freezer before I insert it?

Let me know how you did it if you have done this before..

Thanks.
Paul

Am I seeing it wrong, or are you doing it the wrong way? Are you trying to put the bearings into the frame?

First the bearings go inside the swing arm - outside the frame. Race first, then the bearing, then seal. Then swing arm goes inside the frame. Then the shafts go into the frame from the outside. The smaller diameter of the shat inside the bearing, the larger into the frame - you should have the swing arm installed by then and able to swivel it. Then comes the tension adjusting stopper. Adjust tension accordingly as per manual.

You have to also adjust the detachable cross bar that comes under the frame. There clearance isif I remember, 2 mm maximum.

You shouldn't have to pound the pins in, with a hammer. Simple solution: use a Brake Slave Cylinder hone in a drill and hone out the pin-bores until the pin will fit with a firm push.

Yep. The pins should be tight but free. I used a copper based compound very slightly to prevent future problems, and it works great. They should go in with a light tap using a soft head hammer.

The "service manual" pg 160 shows pulling the pins out using a 5mm bolt with your fingers. Picture is worth a thousand words.



That being said, most people have had to use a slide hammer with a 5 mm threaded bolt to pull the pins. Some have even had to drill and tap the pivot pins to 8 mm to get a heavier thread to pull the pins but the bottom line is the pins should be a clearance fit in both the bearing race and the frame journal otherwise you couldn't pull the pins out with your fingers as per pic.

I think Kawboy he already had that done, and now trying to install new bearings and re-install the shafts (aka. pins)