I personally don't think trying to get the higher capacity oil pan is worth the trouble and unless one just happened to land at my feet, I wouldn't bother.
The first year, year and a half, Kawasaki had an oil consumption problem and rather than figure out the source of the problem and correcting it, they opted to build a deeper sump. The 1979 and half way through the 1980 model year, they increased the oil capacity from 4.6 Liters to 5.3 liters so .7 liters or .73 US Qt. Their thinking we believe was to ensure riders didn't run out of oil between oil changes.
Late in 1979 Kawasaki realized that the oil consumption was due to a piston ring cylinder fit issue and they came out with a Service Bulletin requiring the 1979 and early 1980's to have a cylinder hone and new piston rings and for the most part, this fixed the problem.
Something else to consider-
ZX14 oil capacity - 4.5 L with an oil filter change ( .1 L less than the KZ1300)
GSXR 1300 Hayabusa - 4.5 L with a filter change
CBX 1000 4 L sump but during initial filling 5.5 L due to the need to fill the oil cooler and piping
Most automobiles only have a 6 L oil capacity when including an oil filter even up to a 5 liter engine.
The biggest issue I see with the KZ1300 is that the oil runs hot. The engine is massive in frontal size and sits right behind the exhaust down pipes and the radiator. dumping all that heat in front of the engine and of course the engine will run hotter.
The original stock exhaust was a double walled header pipe system and that would substantially help control the heat in front of the engine but almost all of the KZ's and ZN's have got replacement exhaust systems and the pipes are all single walled which will dump heat immediately in front of the massive engine block. You could use header wrap on the pipes but my personal experience with header wrap is that the wrap will absorb moisture during down time and that will prematurely rot out the exhaust pipes. I had to use it on my F350 Ford truck with 400 series stainless pipes and within a year and a half, I had perforated pipes.
I'm a bigger fan of ceramic header coatings since they will add corrosion protection and also keep a lot of the heat in the exhaust pipe until it exits at the tailpipe. Jet Hot coatings is one option and it's not cheap. Don just had his headers coated and once he gets the bike up and running, will be able to report on the effectiveness of having the pipes coated. I think he had
Cermachrome- By Bright Hot Headers
( this is his topic)
Another DIY option is an internal ceramic coating offered by
Eastwood's Internal Exhaust Coating
Which I plan on trying. At $30 a can (which is enough to do the header pipes) it looks like an interesting option.
Scotch decided to come up with a way to cool the oil and at the same time make changing the oil filter an easier job. He designed an oil filter adapter to relocate the oil filter and use a common spin on filter. This also added to the oil capacity. He's really happy with his mod . It's an interesting read
Scotch's Spin on Oil Filter / Cooler Adapter