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Yep did it in the frame, big roll of clingfilm around everything and masking tape on the fiddley bits, just need to do the carbs and put it back together now and cross my fingers that retorquing the head bolts has cured the oil leak.

Looking good Charlie. Couldn't be arsed to paint my engine so stripped all the paint off and polished it Keep up the good work and remember. Rome was not built in a day

How did you remove the paint?

Hi all
have just been doing some research on the paint VS heat consideration for my bike.
From performance engine building experience one thing i can say is alloy exchanges heat far more efficiently to the air directly , putting coats of paint over the engine starts to inhibit this process, thus the manufacturers generally use 1k acrylic paint or some times a epoxy enamel satin
thus allowing some heat dissipation, putting a gloss or 2k paint only makes this process all the more difficult
yes the bike is water called so it is not as an extreme problem as on air cooled Engines and people do coat Engines and Brake calipers in full gloss 2K
with relation to 2K paints in general most will more than handle engine and Brake caliper heat use a single system 2K
putting a clear over the 1K paint you have already used is not a very good idea, most likely you will find over time the clear will go yellow ish! better to use a satin or Gloss 1K product from word go
I use paint stripper for removing paint off anything i cant sand or i have a little snap on gun that runs granite (or clean sand) via a compressor its great for engines just put blanking plates over any engine inlets ie ex/carb inlet/oil/water etc
have had real good results with Epoxy enamel
if you have any UNSEEN oil (skin oil) silicon grease on engine paint will eventually lift the job you get will depend entirely on how many Hrs you want to spend prepping the parts
cling films good, i have used tin foil a lot as its fantastic to wrap/hand squash around and onto things
Good luck
Dion

This is interesting information , Dion. When I get started on my rebuild, I was considering 2K, for its durability. However, several on this forum report good results with Smoothrite. I wonder what type of paint Smoothrite is?'

Hi cant say i have herd of smoothrite
VHT have some enamel satin thats good you just have to get the paint product warm for maybe 1/2 hr to make sure it starts curing
i saw some one mentioned about paints not going hard, mate i have the gear to use 2k but have to spray outside so im weather dependent, but i get such a good job from 2k especially 1 system i just love it and so long as you get enough microns on you can always cut back into it and polish, im not such a fan of clear over base
i commonly use PPG, Wattyl or you may have it their as Valspare they are great products and will handle the heat of a engine
all 2k pints are put in a bake oven for atleast 1/2 hr to initial cure but the paint will continue to harden for a few weeks if not months depending on weather conditions
generally speaking most paints can be directly repainted over in a few weeks but after that you have to prep sand before respray as its then to hard for new coat to etch into existing
for it to stay on its all in the prep, new paint will often loosen and lift old paint as it cures harder it will pull it off (ala flaking peeling)
i sue a tooth brush and thinners in a little baked bean tin and just scrub everything
their is a set of fork tubes i just sprayed in the daily chatter Talk to me site this was wattyl colourthane
regards Dion