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TOPIC: Low mile kz1300 where to start

Low mile kz1300 where to start 4 weeks 2 days ago #22497

  • Dion
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not to rain on any ones parade!, but looking at those pics ill reiterate previous thoughts
with that mileage looking as it does idd,
fill tank with coke leave few days , buy POR 15 kit, follow instructions(this seals up the whole surface of the tank)
yes as Kawboy stated definitely clean carbs.
put both back on with fresh fuel and get it running
then drop oil/filter for new
buy seat cover off Ebay(simply stops any water getting to foam)
bleed out all brake fluids for new
then idd ride that sucker!!!
find any faults whilst enjoying it !
mate she is a great looking bike, why rush into a load of stuff that probably is completely unnecessary.
you can always check timing idler gear latter, and make suer eventually replace timing chain tensioner with ZZR1100 or such
if clutch is frozen whilst its running hold brakes on and kick it into gear , more often than not this will free it up
anyways thats my 2cents worth
Dion

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Low mile kz1300 where to start 4 weeks 2 days ago #22501

  • Kawboy
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bluefan44 wrote: I'm also a fan of the manual impact driver for breaking loose Phillips head screws for the first time.
One like this
www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-...a-420785539586&psc=1


Sorry, there are normal phillips on this bike? Like the fittings and clamps while the engine is JIS? I didnt see a JIS head in that link.
edit: or i can just buy the short tip for it, duh.

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You might have to do some research here. Possibly find a JIS tip or pull out a honing stone and fit the Phillips tip to a JIS screw.
Those manual impacts are a 1/2" socket drive and you can always adapt to the drive on a JIS tip.
I just love the manual impact for breaking loose the Phillips screws when then haven't been moved in many years. A couple of light taps with the hammer on the back of that impact driver and out they come. Better than stripping the head on the screw and then having to drill out the head.
1980 KZ1300 B2 converting to an A2. Things I'm working on- Body work- Ducktail mod to rear tailpiece. Add a quarter fairing. Paint - House of Kolor Brandywine/Black. Custom decals. Engine- In house custom ground camshafts with adjustable cam sprockets.7 blade rad fan. DG exhaust pipe.

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Low mile kz1300 where to start 4 weeks 1 day ago #22508

  • giorgi3
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Wow, nice find. You don't see much Vetter stuff around any more. I'm with Dion on the POR 15 kit. I have recently got my KZ1300 out of storage (sat for 22 years, still had 1996 license plates :) ). I used Vinegar instead of coke to clean out the tank. Then the POR kit did the trick . The carbs on mine were a mess, so I had them professionally redone. Found after much frustration that one of the pickup coils was bad, making it run on 4 of 6 cylinders. Now it's running good, just waiting for spring to get it back out and about.

Anyway congratulations! Hope you have great success.

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Low mile kz1300 where to start 3 weeks 5 days ago #22547

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First round of cleaning out the tank went well with purple power to get the old gas varnish. I'll use apple cider vinegar when I get free time next. How does my petcock and fuel level look? I know the fuel level float needs a clean, but it actuated just dandy.

The petcock even has plier markings where the original owner forced it to turn. Easy way to fix that?

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Low mile kz1300 where to start 3 weeks 5 days ago #22554

  • StanG
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Just to chip in. I was lucky to get this from eBay for a low price. 20 bucks? Something kike this. I am running original petcock without any filter and having an inline fuel filter attached. This one was discolored, but I gave it an ultrasonic cleaning and it came out like new. Saving it for my next KZ1300. I'd still suggest an external filter.

1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
Building an engine from random parts. This will eventually morph into building a bike from random parts - if it ever happens. Need a frame to begin with.
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Low mile kz1300 where to start 3 weeks 5 days ago #22561

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bluefan44 wrote: The petcock even has plier markings where the original owner forced it to turn. Easy way to fix that?


I know why that happened! Turning that tap 'by hand' can be a real bee-auch. When I picked up my bike the tap wouldn't budge. I dissembled and cleaned out the tap body which improved things but it wasn't long before the tap was inoperable again. The internal valve is a bit of a plastic 'cone' and the design puts to much pressure on that cone making it very difficult to move the tap. Based on some advice on this form, I filed down the tang on the inside of the tap handle slightly to relieve some of the pressure on the cone (the tang fits into a slot on the plastic cone). The tap is operable now but still difficult to use while riding (but not impossible) - mostly because of it's awkward placement.
Hello from Canada's We(s)t coast.

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