Can't argue it doesn't or won't work. That's because you have continuity between the housing and the bars and the bars and the handle-bar clamp, etc. plus the throttle cable(s) and clutch cable if still used. A dedicated grounding point was simply due diligence on Kawi's part.
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
And, to their credit, it's probably one of THE best turn signal canceling systems on any (old) bike I've owned. Honda did a lot of things right on the 1200 Goldwing, but the turn signals always manage to turn off about 30 feet before the turn. Consistently.
Pretty sure my '76 GL1000 and '72 CB750 don't even have one.
Please help us here, so where does it state anywhere in the manual or anywhere else that its MAIN PURPOSE is as a ground for the solenoid.?..........I cannot find it ?
You are correct, the solenoid does have an earth wire with a ring terminal coming off it which is fixed to the main lower body of the swich casing itself with a small screw...............but its nothing to do with the aforementioned location screw, which SOLE purpose is to slot into the hole in the handlebar to prevent the switch unit from moving around on the handlebar, which is not speculation or opinion.................as originally explained in my post number 27441 and detailed on page 144 of the workshop manual.
We just need to give RDUROST the correct, accurate information in responce to his initial question.
The screw is a location screw with lock nut to keep the handlebar switch in position on the handle bar via a pre drilled hole in the handlebars..............nothing else.
I've PDF searched the manual for a reference to the ground pin and didn't find it .
I have an original 1980 "B" model and the stock handlebars are a painted black. Knowing that paint is not a good conductor of electricity and the left switch assembly needs to have a ground circuit, the only way to provide this without a separate ground wire would be to break the paint and ground through the handle bar and I suggest the "pointy end" of that screw was made to accomplish this task and locating in a hole or indentation in the handle bar would hold the position of the switch. The knurling on the handlebars would break the paint on the "other" end of the handlebar ground circuit.
Changing out the handlebars to a chromed handle bar would provide the ground circuit regardless of the locating /grounding pin UNLESS the switch assembly got a fresh coat of paint which might electrically insulate the switch from grounding.
Bottom line, we all need to understand that the switch assembly needs to have a ground circuit provided in order to function properly. This is just another area that the service manual falls down and collectively we can all manage to overcome the manual's shortfalls with our thoughts here on the Forum.
As ever, fair points in what you state..............but which end of the handlebars are you referfing the knurling to L or R ?
I completely stripped my switch and repainted it with Satin Matt Black and bought the switch sticker kit from our friend in Europe (which is very good) and it still all functions perfectly. This is no doubt due to the paint crushing onto the hndlebar itself when the 2 switch screws are tightened.
This is just another area that the service manual falls down and collectively we can all manage to overcome the manual's shortfalls with our thoughts here on the Forum.