TOPIC:

Scotchawacky :

-A double malfunction,
A tow-rope break under 300',
- Me, the morning after a D.Z. party,
- The name of my private Polynesian island, if I could afford one.
- My attempt to Golf ( it'll never happen)

Just wondering about these mods.. All modern bikes have hydraulic clutch activation (as far as I know) and a very light pull of the lever. If the current cable system works well, and installing a conversion doesn't really change much (like having a very light clutch similar to the modern bikes), what is the point except for having something fancy? Perhaps that 'modern feel' can be achieved with specific components, or perhaps the bikes internal parts need to be current as well? I have a hydraulic clutch on the 2007 Vmax and it feels the same. But when I did demo rides on a couple 2019 bikes recently, all of them had a really easy to pull clutch lever. Literally, even a child could do it.

StanG wrote: ... what is the point ....

Very low maintenance and never being stuck at the side of the road with a broken clutch cable are a couple I can think of. I always lube and adjust my clutch cables at least a couple of times a year but I've only flushed the hydraulic clutch fluid on my Vulcan once in 18 years (although it's probably due ). I've got stuck on the road twice in the last couple of years not because the clutch cable broke but because the 'nut' at the end of the cable cracked - something very difficult to foresee.

If I wasn't concerned with collector plate status for my older bikes, I'd convert them all to hydraulic clutches.

The avoiding of mechanical failure is a good point. And I think you could get away with still having the collector plates, especially if you already have them. I think they are not as strict as with cars, and I've never heard of motorcycles being stopped and scrutinized for perfect 'antiquness' (is that a word or I invented one?). Example - my 'boat' GL1100 doesn't even have 'Honda' on it, and they never came in the color I have.

My cable clutch worked well! Lengthening the actuating arm helped a bit but, well.......it just wasn't fancy enough !
As previously stated: lever force with the Hyd. is at least 1/2. (50% for the scientists)
Clearly, I went overboard: Next time - I'll leave the plate with it's mill-finish c/w scratches and use the more common hacked bolts with rusty nuts.

There's a distinct advantage to a cable vs. hyd. system: If a cable breaks in the middle of.....somewhere - there's a better chance of jury-rigging - even with a non-specific cable. Have a problem with Hyd. and your pretty much screwed - unless you carry the seal-kits and a bottle of DOT.

Think I'll start looking for a pair of 6-pots. Shouldn't be hard to find some leakers with road-rash.

0h, I missed that 1/2 less force required remark. I thought I read it made no difference. Perhaps in regards to something else. So... in non scientific way, you mean you are pulling that lever with 2 finger instead of 4? That's all I need to know.

The brakes here still not resolved. 6 pot sounds good. Even Vmax get 6 pot upgrade over the 4 pods. But I know you have zero interest in Vmax.. The 1 pods stop good, but I need to apply too much grip at times. Makes it feel more 'earthy', less virtual, but after a learning curve I bet it would feel good to have more braking power at your fingertips. 0N the other hand, having less makes me stick to keeping the distance, and safe riding. I can handle that. Mostly researching now for my GL1100, because the whole overhaul and new pads, braking sucks on that bike.