Yes. This chrome plated air box cover came with a broken off knob. The right side is fine and already on the bike. Chrome plated covers are correct for my 1982 A4 model. People try to pull them off the bike and they are stuck there really bad. The reason is the air boxes come often equipped with hard plastic instead of rubber dampers for mounting these covers. The first thing I do is I cut them out and replace with rubber.
In a similar way, people create damage not understanding how the lower air box and the coolant reservoir are connected.
If this compound is this strong, there a few places for small repairs. 0ne be it those cracked/broken mounts on air boxes, a cracked tool tray and such. And tank and covers badges - you could build them up to shape then paint to correct color. 0r just make a copy for the missing part and complete one.
1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts
Stan: You can buy replacement posts that you can cut to fit. I used a pair on one of my voyager side covers - with mixed success - getting them properly located is the difficulty - one I got perfect, the other no so much, but it works (for now).
I got some of these off eBay. I had to cut to lenght/angle (figuring that out is the tricky part), and grind down the tips a bit as they're too large for Kawasakis.
For plastic repair, people used to use crazy glue mixed with baking soda - wondering if that really what 'Plastifix' is (but a lot cheaper).
Well, I finally got around to repairing the broken posts. Here's my process:
I still wasn't convinced I had the right 'stand-off' measurement. To get a better idea, I used some modelling clay rolled up in a bit of a 'column', and stuck it on the 'boss' that holds the broken post's grommet. Then I fitted the cover in place and pressed down (compressing the clay) until It felt like the cover was in the right position. Then I removed the cover and measured the compressed clay. Both sides measured out at approximately 1 1/8" (just the stub length - not including the the nub) which I think roughly correlates with MA's measurements).
Since the replacement post 'nubs' were too big for this application, I used coarse and fine files and some steel wool to reduce the size to something more approaching the original post nub.
I fixed the replacement post(s) in a small mitre box using some wood clamps and cut the posts to length using a hacksaw. I've never used a mitre box yet that would make a square cut and this was no exception. I used a file to clean up the new post bottoms and made them as square as I could.
I test fitted the posts in their grommets to ensure the covers were at an appropriate level.
Using a compass I drew two concentric circles on the inside of each cover locating the centres using was was left of the 'cross' that formed the base of the original posts. CAUTION: WHILE THIS WORKS FOR LOCATING THE BROKEN POST FOR THE RIGHT COVER, IN MY CASE, ONCE CEMENTED, THE NUB ON THE LEFT COVER POST WAS OFF FROM THE GROMETT BY ABOUT 1/4~1/2 INCH. I'm redoing that cover now - See: "Round Two" below. The inner circle was roughly the diameter of the replacement posts and was used as a guide of what to 'rough-out' on the cover. The outer circle would be used as a guide to help locate the replacement post when gluing. The lines were quite faint so I 'dotted' them up with an indelible marker for better visibility. (The replacement post in the picture below has not yet been cut to size).
Using a Dremel tool with a grinding stone, I remove the last vestiges of the original posts (the 'cross') to create a level surface and roughed out an area approximately equal to the diameter of the replacement posts, i.e. the inner circle, to maximize the adhesion of the cement.
Wiped down glue surfaces with brake fluid.
Mixed up some two part epoxy (JB Weld PlasticWeld - as specified by the replacement post mfr.)
and placed a dollop on the inner circle and the bottom of the replacement post and cemented the post in position using the circles as guide for location. I cleaned up the excess epoxy with a Q-tip.
The epoxy is supposed to cure in an hour or so but I'm letting the cover sit for 24 hours before putting them back in service. I'll update when they're fitted.
Update: Right cover fits like a glove. Left cover, which has the replacement post pretty much centred on top of the original cover 'cross' is off by 1/4~1/2 inch.
PS: I considered installing the posts in their grommets and cementing them into place with the covers on the bike (I've successfully used that method on covers with three posts) but with twp posts covers, one of which is broken, there's limited control for placement or ensuring the posts end up 'straight' and in full contact with the cover.
On a side note, the fitment of the original posts into their grommets is very tight and I suspect that why just about all covers have one or more broken posts. I purposely made the replacement post nubs on the small size (and lubed them generously when test fitting with silicone lubricant) and I'm wondering if I should 'grind' down the remaining original post on each cover as well.