TOPIC:

Silly question time 
Is the timing chain adjuster automatic like the cam chain adjuster?

Oh?
Isn’t the cam chain the same thing as the timing chain?

Looking at the parts list, I would hazard a guess and say that the timing chain tensioner (  the ignition timing chain in the A1 & A2 but not A3 A4 A5,, as distinct from the camshaft chain )   is of similar design to the cam chain tensioner -  self adjusting, and with a locking bolt to aid installation.   I believe the timing chain, which turns the shaft in the pulse coil housing of the A1 and A2, also drives the water pump shaft on all model years.  Maybe Scotch, who would no doubt have dealt with the tensioner during the recent reconditioning of his A2 , can confirm. 
Speaking of Scotch, have you had a fine day yet on which to test the rejuvenated engine? 

My '80A is now back on the road but short rides cuz it's still to chilly.  No issues or concerns but now with new rings and valves, I have to play with the choke for a minute so am going to remove the choke-air mod and see what the results are.  Worked great for a tired engine.  I'll post the results.
The short Chain for the water pump has a tensioner with no "locking" mechanism.  I did "the Mod." for the Cam-chain years ago - using the original tensioner. I kept the OEM locking mechanism AND the spring but rely on the added bolt to protect the engine.   I occasionally check this on a warmed-up and running engine.  I back off the lock-nut, back-off the bolt 1/2 turn and then turn the bolt in again until I feel some light pressure on the bolt and feel the vibrations change. Then back-off the bolt about 1/4 turn. All by the "feel" of the vibrations via the bolt. 
I had 93,446K on the original sprocket (not a lot left) so this procedure seems to work.   Can't say I notice any new noises from the "Liska" sprocket.

I’ve replaced my cam chain adjuster with one of these, I’m assuming the adjustment is as you’ve described above Scotch?

 

Yes, same principle.
     Do not over tighten the bolt in an attempt to eliminate any clicking noise which is a result of the sprocket/roller frame spanking the end of the adjuster bolt !  Over tightening will stop the noise but wear out the roller and what ever is left of the OEM plastic sprocket, all the sooner.  This is why I (personally) would not use a ZX10(?) adjuster regardless of how much it's heavier spring is "trimmed" .  For those that are adamant that the ZX style is superior haven't put +90,000K  on the roller and OEM plastic sprocket and likely will only see a fraction of  this due to the 2000(?)grams of pressure compared to the 600(?) grams of pressure applied by the OEM adjusters spring   Of course I can only speak of my experience but the proof and logic are in my results of  93,446K.
Use your own intuitive judgement.