TOPIC:

Just got off the phone with the machine shop. In layman terms;   The original valves are at the limit for margins and to "clean them up" will have them sitting too deep in the seat when the seats are also cleaned -up.  New valves will ensure I have room for shims !
Pistons and cylinders  are great !   Cyl's  only require a honing and the pistons will remain within the spec.'s for cyl. clearance.
Just have to wait for the valves to get here - from Australia !
 

That's good news about the cylinder bores and pistons. Do you stick to the recommended oil change interval, or change it more frequently? 
  Did you mention that you had bought a set of standard size Kawasaki rings?  I think I read somewhere  (maybe David Ewing mentioned it)  that Kawasaki improved the durability of the rings at some point - maybe from A3 model onwards?

Have you given much thought to the primary & secondary chains? I recall Kawboy's explanation of how the valve timing and therefore compression can be affected by the primary chain wear. 

I've always stuck to a 3000K oil change although in recent years it's more like change the filter and top up.
I did buy a set of standard rings.  Don't have any control over ring material and can't justify custom exotic materials.  This time 'round I'm not going to be quite as gentle with the break-in.  There seems to be some who believe the recommended break-in is too gentle and that is what created glazed cylinders. Ring and cylinder-liner material compatibility?   Who the hell really knows?
Primary and secondary chains appear OK, deflection wise.  They'd have to be hanging' like an old cloths-line before I'd gut the transmission for those. Like everyone else - I'll  get the valves and ignition timing as close as I can and then: "Ride fast and take chances" !

scotch wrote:

 "Ride fast and take chances" !
 

That a boy!