Rebuilding my Z1300, had it 6 years, never been running. Engine is out of the frame for painting (frame and engine). I was going to strip the top end and inspect, but it looks like new under the cam cover, 29k miles on the clock.
Any advice on whether I should strip it or not, gasket set is already bought. If not, what should I definitely do... the mechanical seal I'm guessing from the previous post!
Have to agree - the top-end looks great. The nylon cam-chain gear looks fine to me. My '80 looks the same and has 78,000K on it. Check out the Tensioner modification if yours hasn't been done. DO NOT over tighten this adjustment regardless of which mod. you have or choose. Over tightening is the fastest way of prematuraly ruining this nylon part and replacement requires the cylinders to come off. I doubt the cam or drive chains have any issues given the low mileage. Drop the oil-pan and service the sump screen. You won't know if the valve-stem seals are still viable until you start running/riding it. I found a way to change the seals with the head on, but we can get into that later. You've likely checked the valve gaps so you know the engine turns over freely.
If it starts, idles and responds to throttle; leave the carbs, for now. If it won't start or does but won't idle - get back to the forum and the typical issues can be discussed in detail at that time.
Best thing to do is start reading the manual and dig into the forum topics. The volumes of info avaibable will address almost everything you could need to know. Be paitent, don't get over-whelmed, try to figure things out for yourself. If you can't, then ask.
1300's are very easy to work on but like everything else - there are tricks and solutions that can only be learned from those who know and most on this forum are happy to share.
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
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So the manual says to measure 20 links (21 rivets), service limit 128.9mm, mine only 127mm so cam chain good. Phew!
The ZX11 tensioner already fitted, I dont have the standard one. It goes in 11 clicks! Can anyone tell me the length of the spring, it doesnt look like its been cut, so I might need to cut 10mm off it to reduce the tension. Is that still the best policy? I dont have the standard tensioner to modify, so not going back.
It all needs painting and I hate painted over gaskets, so a strip down to clean and paint is in order. I've also ordered a leak down tester so I'm going to do that before stripping. Having decided to strip it anyway, I have ordered the metal idler gear from Liska so that's going in too.
The M6 nut is probably down in the crankcases somewhere now as it sits directly above the camchain. Its worthwhile having a good search around the shim buckets and camshaft areas with a magnet just to see if its sitting waiting to jump into the engine when you build it all up ?
You really do need to find it and when you fit it or the replacement, get the threads really clean and plenty of thread lock on them. Check the other one too !
As for the Emission Valves, just make flat alloy plates and sink them in with silicon, then fit the covers with new gaskets, or a bead of silicon around the edge.
You need block the hole on each cover.
I fitted a Liska Metal Idler Gear to my own 1300 about 2 months (2000 miles ago) and could not hear any different noise from the top end once running, but I do now think I can hear something form that area..............not a bad noise..........just different, but am happy to live with that rather than run the Nylon Gear.
There are very mixed opinoins and info on the length of the ZX11 Tensioner Spring recently and wether to cut it or not and they all make sense, but the latest is that if you cut it, it makes the spring stronger, so maybe best to just leave it as is ?
The ZX11 Tensioner has 19 to 21 TOTAL Clicks in its length, so 11 would appear to be half way. Mine was 10 to 11 clicks and has 40,000 miles recorded and the cam chain is within service limit too.
Why Have Four When You Can Have Six ?
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