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TOPIC: overheat

overheat 1 week 3 days ago #24219

  • scotch
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You've got a full Rad.
You've got coolant in the reservoir.
You've got a fan that does come ON.
You've got a temp. gauge that apparently shows a FAST rate of increase in coolant Temp.
Now for the "stupid" question: Are you sure the water-pump impellor is spinning?
One possibility:
If the c-clip has come off it might be that the impellor has moved forward on the shaft, disengaging the "Tabs" on the shaft, from the slot in the back of the impellor. The seal would still be in contact ( you haven't mentioned any leaks from the "Bleed-hole"), thus putting the water-pump impellor in contact with the impellor cover. There is very little space between the impellor blades and the impellor cover but there could be enough to allow this scenario.
The other possibility is the Water-pump shaft "Tabs" that engage into the back of the impellor, have corroded away enough to grind-out the "slots" in the impellor. The shaft will spin but with no means of engagement the impellor is not turning.
Worst case scenario - The Nylon drive gear is stripped.

Other then that.......:huh:
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !

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Last edit: by scotch.

overheat 1 week 3 days ago #24223

  • StanG
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Other then that.......:huh:



0ther than that - a couple photos to illustrate this! lol
How about starting the engine with open radiator cap? The coolant level should come up - it would mean the pump is spinning. You could also loosen the hose with the cap closed and see if it starts leaking with pressure.



1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
Building an engine from random parts. This will eventually morph into building a bike from random parts - if it ever happens. Need a frame to begin with.
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overheat 1 week 3 days ago #24231

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StanG wrote:

Other then that.......:huh:



0ther than that - a couple photos to illustrate this! lol
How about starting the engine with open radiator cap? The coolant level should come up - it would mean the pump is spinning. You could also loosen the hose with the cap closed and see if it starts leaking with pressure.




I've had this wear issue. lobes corroded away on shaft and back of impeller worn away. New CNC impeller from Germany and a work colleague welded up the lobes on the shaft and then turned them back to proper dimensions
1980 KZ1300 B2 Touring/A2
1990 ZZ-R1100
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overheat 1 week 2 days ago #24240

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Cheers guys
No water leaks at all
Radiator gets hot so i would have thought impeller was turning as if not the engine coolant would fry pretty quick
Ran it up today for 20 minutes on idle and although red hot on guage, when fan is running it does not boil up.
I will check impeller anyway.
I am also going to get a themo strip and see how hot the rad core is.
Have heard about the plastic gear failing. Is it a pig if a job?
Tad

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overheat 1 week 2 days ago #24241

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Ps. Its normal i guess for the fan to run a while when ignition switched off?
Tad

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overheat 1 week 2 days ago #24242

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Yes - the fan will run when the key is off. It might do a couple times. Quite funky when you park and cover the bike! It rises up like a heated balloon! haha

The plastic gear - you'd need to take the head off. It's not that bad. It also creates an opportunity to check and service a few other things. And parts, like recommended Kawasaki head gasket, are expensive. But it's not a very bad job.

To add one more thing - I installed a ZN temperature sensor. It kicks in at lower temperatures. Pretty much I never see the temp. gauge showing more than a bit over half way.
1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
Building an engine from random parts. This will eventually morph into building a bike from random parts - if it ever happens. Need a frame to begin with.

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