TOPIC:

Today. I have mostly been cleaning all connectors and checking connectivity between all conectors and all ok. No broken wires to be found and still no bloody spark. Only if I press the kill switch on & off? Its wine o'clock time.
Did forget to state that bike is a 1980 A3 model and do have a different ic unit to the A1/2 model.

Hi, have same model and had similar problem. Turned out to be the IC Ignitor which on an A3 is different from the other models and hence aren't interchangeable. Quite by chance, I stumbled across Lauri Nurminen in Talen, Estonia I think, thereabouts, he is an A3 nut. He has a guy who makes new circuit boards for the IC Ignitor. Sent my mine across, got it fixed and hey presto, it sparks. Top chap, he also does other Z13 bits as well. If you type his name into Google it should find him, if you can't, let me know. Good luck.

Lauri is a member on the forum

I don't recall seeing this addressed in this post. Did you check the kill switch for continuity? The reason I ask is my girlfriend bought a new Can Am Spyder last summer and the kill switch was defective you had to push down on the run side of the toggle of the switch in order to have it make contact if you let go of the switch the bike would die. taped it over with electrical tape and a 1/4" nut and back to the dealer for a new switch - problem solved.

Wondering if you've done a continuity/resistance test on the "clutch lock-out" switch ?

Thanks again for all the info and still checking the ins and outs of the problem. Kill switch fine, clutch interlock fine, ballast resister fine, primary and secondary on coils fine (though thinking of changing and do away with ballast resister after reading articale in faq) My mental state re problem Shall try and get in touch with Lauri to see if able to send ic unit to be checked out b4 throwing good wonga after bad.
Any info re what best coils to go for without having to mod to fix to orig mountings would be appreciated. Have heard that cbx 1000 coils work?