TOPIC:

On this turn signal switch, most of the wires have disconnected themselves from the pads.

The obvious answer is to solder them back in place.

Question is, how robust is that switch? Am I going to have issues getting it too hot and damaging it?

Had the same problem with one of mine. Almost like a COLD solder connection.

Going to suggest something that will sound contradictory to the "Norm", but trust me - I know a bit about soldering and this is my technique to save ruining a component of this nature.
DO NOT use a "pencil" soldering iron !!!!!!. The tips are TOO small and contact with a terminal and wire this size sucks the heat out of the tip. This results in you having to hold the tip to the terminal longer, to get it to take the solder.........and that's when things start to melt !
For soldering of this type I use a "Weller" soldering gun, (High heat) making sure the tip is CLEAN and shaped well. Flux the tip, and "tin" it. Re-heat the lead end to 'freshen-up" the solder on it. Apply a tiny amount of resin- flux to the switch terminal, and with the a hot tip get a small amount of solder melted onto the terminal. Then solder the lead to the terminal.
This does seem to be counter-intuitive but the reason it works without damaging anything is because you're "hitting" it with lots of heat FAST. Solder melts BUT, not enough time to start melting things.
OR, you can use a pencil soldering iron and wait for things to start melting before the solder flows !

Thanks, I’ll give it a shot.

I forgot something important ! I make my own soldering gun tips from 8 (?) gauge conductor. It's really inexpensive compared to buying the pre-made tops and it heats fast.
If you use a typical tip,, file the sides down !
Pre-heat the tip and dip it in flux. Touch the terminal with the hot, fluxed tip - it will be hot enough in about a second - then touch the solder to the tip. The solder will melt and flow off the tip onto the terminal. You're looking for a small dome of solder to be left on the terminal. Put a small amount of flux on the lead end. Pre-solder if you have cut the lead back, to get a better end of exposed wire. Then place the end of the lead on to the dome of solder, on the terminal. Touch the wire with the soldering iron tip. Should melt together almost immediately. Done.
Don't mean to patronize with this explanation, but clarity is best - especially in this case. If you can do this - you can solder almost anything properly............with, perhaps the exception of Brass Floats

I'm also restoring one. It was real 'bitch' to take it apart, because of the rusted little screws. I had to drill them out (hand held as always), and I am just glad they came out using an extractor. And just like with the original one on my bike now, all is apart now. To start, it will also need connecting one of the wires.

It does make me chuckle when I see these parts of our old bikes in parts.............its real 1970's technology that !

It will all be a replaced with a tiny component on a PCB now on a modern bike !

Old Skool Rools !!!

Pete F
UK (or whats left of it ).