I've been doing some homework on the regulator issue and thought I needed to update you all on the findings. I sent an email off to www.Roadstercycle.com asking about the newer Shindengen SH847 series regulator and comparing it to the very reputable SH020AA shunt regulator currently available. Here's the email and the response I received. It looks like the SH847 is working beautifully keeping the stator running cooler and so far 500 units out there working without problem. I would jump up the extra dollars. for the SH847 before spending the money on the FH020AA.
John Eplett here. I am a moderator on www.kz1300.com as "Kawboy" Our members upwards of 1400 all around the world share a common interest in the 1979-1989 Kawasaki KZ1300 Z1300 ZN1300 6 cylinder Kawasaki's. We have a few common problems one of which is an issue with frying stators and regulators/rectifiers. Some of us more knowledgable have switch to MOSFET style regulators and have reasonable success although the issue with frying stators still exists.
My question to you is "What is the difference between the FH020AA and the newer SH847 and will it rectify our issue with frying the stators once and for all?" It's one thing to talk our members into switching to the MOSFET design but if by going the "extra mile" and going straight to the SH847 to be finished with this problem of ours is the way to go, I would advise our members and send them in your direction. I like to try and keep up with the new technologies. In attempting to research the diference, I find no available information. I would really appreciate it if you could take a moment and provide the information I seek.
Hi John, The burning stator issue can most likely remedied with the SH847. It is a series R/R that runs the stator cooler. I have about 500 of these out there now on problem children like the Rotax Buell and Aprilia motorcycles, they are a stator eating nightmare but the SH847 has been great on these. Wether it’s the Holy Grail or not is yet to be seen but at this point it’s been the stator saver. About 500 out there with no issues.
The SH847 is a series R/R that has a 50 amp continuous rating. We use it on race bikes that unplug headlights as it will destroy a normal shunting R/R doing that. Also on bike where they change all the stock lighting to LEDs as that also wreaks havoc on a stock type R/R as then they have to get rid of all that extra wattage not used in the bulbs and overheats the R/R.
The SH847 is bigger than the FH020AA Mosfet so you will have to do some mounting homework. I’ve sent a PDF so you can make a cardboard cutout for fitment trials. You should be able to print it out 100% and be the correct size but measure it to make sure. I do have adapter brackets and also make custom ones if needed.
Hope this helps your guys out. Those 1300s are hard to find in the states, I’ve seen one once.
17252 Hawthorne Blvd. 222
Torrance, Ca 90504
On Jun 4, 2018, at 8:54
The following user(s) said Thank You: scotch, zed_thirteen, DannyKZ
You're right Razmo, it's a big one but still doable. I have yet to upgrade the R/R on my KZ so I'll dive in and get one to be fitted.
First things first. Camshaft grinding if I ever get some time for myself. It never ends around here. My next adventure is cataract surgery on the 18th June. (Apparently, I'm presently too blind to drive and haven't been behind the wheel for the past month because of it. Even though we have great health insurance in Ontario Canada, If I want to get this taken care of relatively quick, it's going to cost me $2800 for one eye. My other option is to go on a waiting list and have it done under our health insurance plan at a hospital. The upgraded intraocular lens would cost $900 so about 1/3 the cost but it wouldn't get done for probably 1 year wait. The big question is the second eye. It's gone myopic (near sighted) I may end up with 2 intraocular lens so I can get back to seeing again. This getting old is the shits. Although I can't complain. These short comings are not life threatening so I really can't complain.
The things you do when you can't be in the shop working on your projects. The past 2 months have been absorbed with packing up the house and shop and getting ready to move house. That includes putting the KZ and other toys in long term storage until moved in and a complete renovation to the next house. Life !!
If I can't be playing in the garage then I find myself couch engineering. I've ordered copper core ignition wire and new NGK sparkplug resistor plug caps coming from the UK. I've sent 2 camshafts down to Web Racing Cams in California for grinding and waiting for them to show up.
In the meantime I've been looking at the Shindengen SH847 again to get my head wrapped around why I wanted to go in that direction which lead me to some more interesting info finds.
The Shindengen SH775 was a common switch out for the GS Suzuki and did wonders for the problems the Suzuki were having. The SH775 is a series regulator capable of switching 30 amp loads. The stock regulator on the Suzuki which also the same type as the KZregulators is a shunt regulator. Shunt regulators switch the alternator output from the load to ground when the load is reduced i.e. when the electrical circuit does not need all the power, the regulator dump the excess power from the alternator straight to ground, which is a basic short circuit.
Shindengen came out with a new model, the SH847 and it is also a series regulator like the SH775 but it can handle 50 amps.
My latest info find shows that the Suzuki guys are finding the oil temps when running the series regulators are 30 deg. F cooler and its due to the fact that when shunting the excess power to ground, the circuit is operating as a short circuit and the stator is heating up because the wires in the stator and stator output wires are being energized like a heating element. The stator is oil cooled taking the heat away from the stator so it's adding unnecessary heat to the oil. In the series regulator, the circuit is being opened and closed to regulate the output so in effect the stator runs cooler instead of running full tilt.
Lower operating oil temps are just a byproduct of running the newer series regulators so just another reason to opt for the newer regulators.
Be aware if you go this route, there are a lot of Chinese look a likes out there and you need to go to a reputable supplier. Roadster Cycle is all over this aspect including a Youtube video on the fakes. If your interested in doing this mod check out this site