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The plugs supplied with the Shindengen FH020AA MOSFET V/R are top quality. Supplied with heavy-duty robust female terminals and seals these plugs are water resistant and dust proof when assembled correctly. More info at ROADSTERCYCLE.COM.
The + and - from the V/R output go directly to the battery. The factory BROWN and RED/WHITE wires required for the OEM V/R are not required. The terminals were removed (cut off at the terminal end for minimal wire length loss), a piece of heat-shrink was used to cover each end + 1/8" and then a larger piece used to secure the two together. In my opinion, Factory wires/plugs not being used due to wiring mods should always left intact, or as intact as can be facilitated. It's a BAD idea to cut off plugs/leads that aren't being used. Removing only the terminals in this instance allows for the two wires to be insulated and tucked away easily but not at the expense of the integrity of the harness.


Because the Female terminals are larger then "standard" I stripped the leads back 1/2" and folded the bare lead in half to better fill the crimp cavity. Then crimped gradually and carefully using a common crimping tool. Started with the large gauge crimping channel, then the next smallest and finally the smallest, to finish. This requires flipping the terminal over in the crimping jaws to alternate between using the dimpling pin and the semi-round opening. Simply work the jaws to eventually get a nice round factory-type crimp. Using pliers just crushes the tabs, looks like shit and doesn't grip the copper strands as well. Then soldered. THEN crimped the strain-relief in the same gradual manner to get the two claws wrapped uniformly around the insulation.
The crimping tool I use

A few photos which I hope will better explain the crimping process I prefer to use.
These seals go on first.

Double-up

Note the 3 staking pins and cradles

Look closely at the various orientations of terminal to Cradle & Pin

The rest should be self explanatory.

I find it easier to pull the bare leads c/w sleeve & including the BLUE oil PSI wire through the frame first, then attach the terminals. To hold the leads for soldering I used one of these

and used a strong magnet to hold it in place

You don't mess around!