TOPIC:

Received the new MOSFET V/R. ( Now, just waiting for the new Stator) The M-V/R comes complete with connectors, plugs and a fuse. The two plugs are well designed, locking and with with seals to make them moisture resistant/dust proof. The fuse supplied is ridiculously large for a 30 amp! The photo shows a comparison between a standard blade fuse holder and the MONSTER that's provided. (frankly, I don't want this leviathan any where in/on my 1300.) l decided to replace it with a 30amp self-resetting breaker. There will no doubt be a few who will think this might not be a good idea but .........
The first concern might be that the HUGE fuse is required for the safety of the V/R. As a point of interest: The heavy translucent insulation gives the visual impression that the wire gauge is substantial. It is actually 14g. The detail I find conflicting and humorous is that the terminal that is supplied for the battery connection is CHEAP. Easily bent with a little effort. It will be replaced with a "standard" and substantially better terminal. All terminal ends will be soldered ! The 30 amp breaker will be wired with 14g so I'm not concerned about the disparity in physical size. 30 amps is 30 amps, so size in this case isn't everything or relevant.
There is the rational that if a fuse blows, you know there's a problem. If a breaker "pops" and resets, you may not realize there's a problem. My way of thinking is this: I know that when the battery gets discharged to a low state ( as would be the case if a fuse blows or the breaker keeps tripping) , my gauges and signals start acting up. Whether fuse or breaker, an issue won't be realized until the "electricals" start to give that indication. So in this case ( in my mind) it's "6 of one - half dozen of the other".) Plus; the breaker with it's attached mounting bracket is easier to deal with then the MONSTER fuse that is supplied. Kawboy probably saw these fuses at the Nuclear Power Plant !
Having said all this: If anyone sees a flaw in my way of thinking, please comment.
The M-V/R mounts to the same bracket as the OEM V/R. Years ago when I had to replace the V/R, I had to "tweak" the bracket to fit the mounting holes of that V/R. To mount the new M-V/R I had to re-tweak the bracket back to the original shape. Not a big deal but I mention this because I don't remember whether the mounting bracket had some slight off-sets or was completely flat ( the way I reconfigured it for the new V/R.) I had to put two spacers between the Ignition module and the bracket to keep the back/potting material of the igniter from touching the threaded mounting lugs for the V/R. I don't know how much additional cooling this would provide given that these new MOSFET V/R's are supposed to run substantially cooler by design but the air gap can't do any harm.
More as I progress.

so they supplied the VR kit with a Maxifuse Scotch. Just thought I'd share this finding for consideration. It may be relevant to why they protected this circuit with the Maxi rather than the standard 30 amp fuse.

MAXI Fuses are primarily used for under hood applications and are produced with a high temperature polymer and silver plated blades. They replace the commonly used fusible wire or fusible link to protect a high current segment or system of the wiring harness. Features Littelfuse designed industry standard color coding to indicate amp rating.

With "Diffusion Pill Technology," the MAXI Fuse provides excellent time delay characteristics and low heat dissipation. Designed and patented by Littelfuse, the MAXI Fuse is ideal for motor powered applications which have large inrush currents.

Here's a link to this info. (Just a quick find)
www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,3435.html

Thanks for that KB !!! This info is definitely worth consideration. I understand the premise.
Now I have another comment relative to the supplied bits and and pieces. Aside from the + ring terminal for the battery being of "lite" construction a second ring-connector is supplied and I presume this is to connect the V/R negative to the battery directly. As can be seen by the photo, this ring connector is even smaller then the + ring connector and is equally "lite" by it's thinness. The hole is too small for the battery terminal bolt ! Using it would require the hole to be enlarged which "technically" lowers its amp rating. Also supplied are two lengths (red & black) 16g (stiff) wire which I presume is to be used to extend the + & - leads from the V/R to the battery. This seems very odd given the heavy gauge leads on the Maxi-fuse. The crimp connectors presumably supplied to splice/lengthen the + & - are sized for the 14g which would then require the extensions to be stripped 2X longer so the bare wire end could be "doubled-up" in the crimp end which in itself is not a big concern BUT - None of this makes sense from the "operating load" perspective. Given the "specs" for a maxi fuse and it's 14g leads - why would the wire lead extensions only be 16g and the battery terminal ends so 'flimsy" ? The female blade connectors for the V/R ( 3 stator and the output + & - are heavy duty and very ample.
The differences as outlined make as much sense as trying to use a sprinkler with a 1" and 1/2" hose connected and expecting the same water volume as if both were 1". Not the best analogy perhaps but I think I make the point.
I'm certainly not trying to be argumentative but the "link" you provided has a picture of a Maxi fuse that looks significantly different then the fuse supplied. So I must then ask; Is the fuse as supplied have the operating characteristics of the "real" Maxifuse or is it a copy - and just simply a "very large" fuse? The blades on the supplied fuse are aluminum ( no magnetic attraction) and question this because of the mention by Maxifuse" that their blades are "Silvered". There are no markings on the supplied fuse holder and as can be seen; the two fuses are quite different in appearance. The fuse supplied has "HONG" ( presumably Hong Kong) moulded on to it which is not clear in the photo taken of the top..
The "Pill" technology for "surges" makes sense to a degree. But with the V/R always connected to the battery and presumably "Hot" all the time, it would seem a "surge" would be unlikely if the battery has a decent charge. Now, IF the battery were dead and the engine started, then perhaps there could be a surge as the alternator & V/R do there job but given that the alternator is rated for 28amps output (?) a power surge through a 20 amp "ordinary fuse shouldn't be a problem either. JEEZ ! I'm a bit "befuddled". So much for a simple 2 hour job !
Last photo is a real Maxifuse (taken from web-site) plus a "snip" from an article explaining the Diffusion Pill technology. Clearly there is no such "pill" element in the supplied fuse.

So I defer back to you Kawboy. Your opinion given this latest info would be greatly appreciated !