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New fuse block 6 years 9 months ago #16640

  • scotch
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Easy to do. I unsoldered the wires by pair from the stock fuse carrier and crimped 90 degree terminals. No cutting/lengthening of wires was needed. The 6th fuse is used for a driving light relay and is powered directly from the battery. The 30 amp MAIN and 10 amp FAN are "Bussed" together on the stock fuse block to give the fan power when the key is OFF. It wasn't practical to make a Buss-Bar to bridge two fuse blocks internally so I made this required connection in the form of a jumper-splice between the wires on the outside of the fuse-box. The mounting plate is 4mm Phenolic. It mounts in tandem with the Ignitor. Fits comfortably under the side-cover.

There was no specific reason for doing this mod. but blade fuses are available almost everywhere, where as the 20mm glass fuses are not common. A more convenient location as well, for my purposes.
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
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Last edit: by scotch.

New fuse block 6 years 9 months ago #16641

  • Kawboy
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Nice job there Scotch.. that will keep the electrons flowing.
Now you know me, I can't help myself. With all the brass you've got "floating around", and you didn't want to make up a " Buss-Bar to bridge two fuse blocks internally"
Oh, you're probably using Naval Brass for hydraullic purposes only.
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New fuse block 6 years 9 months ago #16642

  • Phil
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Nice neat job! :)
Only dead fish go with the flow
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New fuse block 6 years 9 months ago #16643

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Actually KB; As it turned out - even Naval brass wasn't available. Seems Gold or Platinum are the popular choices for Belly-button piercings and that was out of my price range !
The fuse block is made in a modular design. Once the back plate is removed all the fuses come out individually, in their own two piece case. The fit and design is such that I didn't want to cut-up the fuses or the case to facilitate a Buss. Not so much lazy as practical in this case. The Jumper-splice works just as well.
The blade fuses are held very snug. The glass tube fuses, not so much, relatively speaking.
Should mention this: I have a proper crimping tool. As there was no way to solder this style of 90 degree spade connector, the crimping tool assured me of a mechanically and electrically sound connection. Trying to crimp ("crush") a connector with pliers or the like is a poor idea.
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
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Last edit: by scotch.

New fuse block 6 years 3 months ago #18077

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Hi Scotch my fuse box is in a sorry state so would like to modify . Over here in UK the ones for sale have just one set of spades on the input . So can I join each pair of wires , put a spade connection on and connect up ? Thanks Mark

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New fuse block 6 years 3 months ago #18078

  • zed_thirteen
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I looked at aftermarket blade fuse holders and couldn't find one with 6 at the time.

I modified a blade fuse box from a ZZ-R1100. I did need to dismantle it and change some of the bridging though. Still need to decide where and how I am going to mount it.

I also hope to get all of the extra features working - like headlight off until engine running, side stand, clutch and neutral locks for starting - if I can find a clean way of adding the side stand switch.

Way down on the jobs to do list though
1980 KZ1300 B2 Touring/A2
1990 ZZ-R1100 C1

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