I'm always glad to help. Your comment about the adapters not having enough thread once the nuts and O-rings were installed reflects back to why I MADE mine. So now you have to either find thinner nuts and/or O-rings and/or run a die down the adapters to lengthen the thread and you'll still have to "Dampen" them ! Not a poke at you !
I simply soldered a self sealing washer to a mig tip to make mine. So "the wrecking ball" to crush eggs comment is now 100% rhetorical !
As far as "dampening the "Smith twins" ah.....NO......let them bounce !
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
If you invested in the best vacuum gauges on the market (Morgan Carb Tune) you get all the correct quality Brass adaptors included in the kit, so dont need to "make" your own or comprimise, or botch or buy other parts or get the solder iron out to make them work, or use damper valves etc,etc..............the wrecking ball solution !
Remember, you buy "Cheap" you but "Twice" ........................being rhetorical of course............some people never learn !!
No problem at all sending you my own to use in the post if you send me a PM with your address, then you can do the job properly and send them back when your done.
Then you can see for yourself why the other type are not as good which is the reason they are so "Cheap" and no doubt made in China.........not the UK like Morgans are.
Apologies for the longer post this time, but non the less, it wont take hours to read as......................well we all know what it mean.............
As far as the loop of hose you have on ports 3 and 4, that's probably the remnants of the emissions control system.
Normally it would feed clean air into the headers to help hit emissions standards, but under deceleration this makes the exhaust pop like crazy (essentially bypassing the air cutoff valves in the carbs). The "smog pump" that set on top of the engine was just another air cutoff valve, and that small loop of hose fed the vacuum that controlled it. You slow down, get enough vacuum to close the valve up top to stop feeding air into the headers, no deceleration pops.
If the rest of your emissions system is gone, you're safe to toss that hose too. Just be sure to cap those intakes off afterward.
If you still have the "loop" of rubber pipe fitted from the old emission valve system, then you must have 2 metal adaptors in number 3 and 4 inlets.
You can move one of these adaptors to either inlet 1 or 2...........or inlet 5 or 6, then you only need find one more to be able to connect the 3 vacuum gauge pipes to.
Leave these adaptors in place with a rubber cap on them when not in use.
A link to those professional Vacuum Gauges with all the adaptors included below...........just for reference.
Hi, I set it all up and took the carbs onto the bench. I adjusted the fast idle as best I could without it being on the bike. Then I went to follow Scotch's instructions as per above link.
I failed at the first hurdle.... I did the paper strip test on the LH carb and I could not set the adjustment so that the paper was unstuck. Adjustment screw all the way in made the mechanism bind and still the gap was too small to get a piece of folded paper through... The other two were fine... I could set it as described, paper moved with a slight drag.
I now also have massive gaps where there were none before...one on the choke valve between the roller and the tab, and one at the idle adjusting screw…See pics.