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Thanks Idemon

I'm in thinking mode, now!

This is when I would like to know if -
When you you have the air box off and start the bike, when you open the throttle, do the throttle pistons rise up?

The idle circuit operates under 2000 rpm at which point the main jets need to come on. If the throttle pistons don't rise, the bike will stumble and backfire under a lean condition.

......but if I turn the handle at once like when you'r enter the highway or got out of a village it dies.
This sounds like a LEAN condition which could be attributed to blocked Mixing-Air passages ( Bottom ports at front of carb inlet). Your main jet and needle height is correct so can not be creating a rich condition.
.......the one that have a high consumption is off my bike for the moment....
Do you have 2 sets of carbs, each with a different problem? If you have 2 sets of carbs......Pick 1. Please don't bounce back and forth between 2 sets !
.....I just rebuilt my carburetors. it only remains synchronized, but I have this problem. It's sound like a misfire .......
Not certain what you mean here. Are they synchronised OR do they need to be syn'd? What is the vacuum reading you are achieving when the carbs are sync'd? What instruments are you using to read the vacuum?
If your misfire is at idle or just above idle - your idle air/fuel circuit(s) are dirty !
Despite your efforts to clean the carbs, soaking them in cleaner and blowing-out with compressed air can be totally inadequate for 100% confidence that they are clean.
Seriously....... consider a "Cleaning Tool". It is proven to be the best way to ensure every passage is cleaned and flushed thoroughly, when used correctly (with lacquer-thinner).
What are the spark plugs condition indicating?
You are using the original floats? This could be compounding your issues ! Check your float levels!
And finally, for now: Are you still using the original ignition coils?
To keep things as simple as possible I'm not going to discuss other parameters/details at this time.

hello to all, I reclean my carburetor and synchronized them. the engine turned to wonder. the next day, while heating it up in the garage a strange noise occurred like the engine was eating something metallic. and to stop after 15 sec then turn again to wonder.have you idea of ​​what causes it with this pic of oil change. Got some magnetic sheaps and non magnetic.

Can't add the video sorry

I wrote - This sounds like a LEAN condition which could be attributed to blocked Mixing-Air passages ( Bottom ports at front of carb inlet).

My Apologies to all - This line is completely out of context due to formatting the response in "Word" .......with too many some "Copy and Paste".
A blocked Mixing Air Port will create a RICH condition for that specific cylinder.

The metal fragments in the pictures suggest something serious has happened and I can appreciate how you must be feeling about this.
Don't panic just yet ! I'd remove the alternator rotor and inspect it, the stator and the now exposed end of the engine block for obvious signs of metal to metal contact.
If there's nothing obvious, I'd then remove and dissemble the entire clutch assembly and inspect everything in the same manner.
Any steel to aluminum contact will be obvious. Cleaning and inspecting the fragments under some magnification might help identify the source.
Not knowing what work has been done in these two areas; it's possible that a bolt or bolts have backed off. This is a "soft" approach" (The "Hard" approach doesn't leave much room for optimism)
At least you were prudent enough to "shut her down" and pull the pan.
Keep an open mind and keep us informed, please.

Now, going to pound-back some more pain-meds for the knee and see what else I can screw-up