TOPIC:

Well, I didn't get anything more done on the cam-cover as I wanted to deal with this "In-tank" fuel filter challenge. Every aspect of trying to put a filter(s) back inside the tank was dictated by one factor - The restrictions created by the very small oval hole that everything must pass through to remount the valve. Several ideas simply didn't work because they were too big for the valve opening. Sometimes by only 1 millimetre; I did not want to start farting around with making this opening any larger and was adamant from the beginning that this was not an option (for myself) although it "could" be.
A mark "scribed" into the valve-cone indicates the "OFF" position. No confusion when reassembling !

This I found interesting and answers a question posted: My 1980 valve with the "casting" for the '79 single-screw retaining design. Left blank, the design was changed to 2 screws to hold the face-plate AND the guts, in place. I like this design (80 and up?) as the face-plate makes 360 degree contact with the fuel selector as opposed to the '79 style where the single screw takes the pressure from the internal spring .

Some time ago I suggested a "fix" for a valve that is difficult to turn, especially when the engine is hot. I realized while doing this filter project that a better way to make the valve easier to turn was to add a spacer between the face-plate and the body. I also changed the internal spring to a softer one. The spring keeps the "cone" pushed into the tapered bore when the fuel-selector is turned. The problem I discovered with mine was there wasn't adequate room between the back of the selector lever and the notched face of the valve-cone. When the valve got engine heat into it the cone couldn't creep from the bore the slight amount required to keep it turning easily. The cone face and the selector end up in contact with each other sort of jamming things up. As I remember with the brief ownership of my '79, that pressure on the single retaining screw design was no better. The cork spacer was changed to a plastic one (allowed the face plate screws to tighten better) and separates the two parts enough to allow the cone" to "float" as required. I can push the selector in about 1.5 mm and it will pop back out when released. This confirms there is sufficient spring pressure and that there is "travel" room for the cone.
I removed the 2nd O-ring as it showed no benefit.



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Although my tank (1/2 full) has been off the bike for 2 months and does not leak, I lapped the cone to body anyway.

From a generic kit of metric O-rings I found one that fit. It's slightly "fatter" but works!

Here is the "MAIN" fuel-tube filter I came up with. It's two layers of S/S braided hose cover. Some aircraft "safety-wire" was wrapped tightly to secure it and to manage all those damned "pointy" ends that would otherwise stab your fingers ! With the wire-wrap - it "just" slips into the hole. The "cap" is retained with a sewing pin pushed through it all.

The RESERVE filter was the brass-mesh screen taken from a "Coleman camp-stove "fuel-funnel". Cut the originally round piece into a square and rolled into a tube with an over-lap of several millimeters. The "top" is sealed with solder. The bottom 5-6 mm is soldered around the perimeter and sanded smooth until it fit snuggly into the RESERVE port. A small steel washer limits the screen depth. I didn't use any sealer as the fit of the screen into the port is sufficient. A nylon "clip" is just an additional means of securing it.



I applied a very thin film of silicone grease to the cone. The valve selector turns very easily and should remain so even when hot.
This may not be as 'slick" as an OEM filter but they don't exist, so...... Filter surface area? With our tanks "sealed" (most if not all ) there should not be any rusting and rust related contaminates. Anything in the fuel ( and we've seen the crap that be in our gas) should be adequately filtered with the mesh. AND - An in-line filter should always be installed, regardless. The purpose of an in-tank filter is to protect the internals of the valve from being scratched/gouged and thus creating a leaking valve and to filter crap that would affect the float needle-valve and the jets. SO - Is latest endeavour of any value? You'll have to decide that for yourself. I'll keep the filters installed as made, and see if there's any negative affects and report back if there are. The goal here was to answer a specific question with a solution.
I'll check fuel-flow from the valve when I put gas in the tank but a quick test indicated no noticeable restrictions when blowing through the ports.
Let the Canon-fire begin

In my case, as you've seen, I have less options to play with. I can't remove the front plate. It's a one piece with the rest of the body. So no cork option for me.
A weaker spring - might be a ball pen spring? Have to check my arsenal.

Now I see Scotch. So the braided line goes over the brass tubing with that bundle of wires?
Two points to mention - do I have to buy Coleman to get that mesh for reserve? And in my case - I still have the whole previous filter cage and you seem to have taken off yours.

A ball-point pen spring will be too light, I think. Any brass filtering mesh will do. And yes - your '79 valve may not be a candidate for the "spacer".

ANOTHER "Too Many links" ?
So here are the last two photos. A very minor chamfer on the bolt holes accepts a very small O-ring on the bolt. Determining the size of the chamfer and the size of the O-ring was by trial. I knew they were correct when I could insert the O-ringed bolt into the holes, push the bolts in and feel the O-rings being squeezed. Mine didn't leak (without the plastic washers the bolt heads sealed against the softer aluminum) and this will simply add to the fact.