TOPIC:

Good Evening,
I'm in the process of stripping the engine from my A1 to rectify some absolutely horrendous "repairs" perpetrated by the previous owner (eg: crankcase broken or cracked behind gearbox then epoxied and siliconed on the outside AND the inside -- still leaks).
I need to split the crankcase halves to sort out the ever-increasing list of disasters but don't really wish to remove the gear train. Can the cases be split by lifting one half and leaving the crankshaft and drivetrain sitting in the other half?
If so, which half is lifted?
Is there anything I should be particularly aware of? (I'm down to lifting the cylinder block, so nearly there).
I've searched the internet, the Kawasaki workshop manual and this forum but I've not seen anything that clarifies this, unless I'm missing the bleeding obvious......
Thanks for reading.
Cheers,
Steve 
Australia

Just follow the KZ1300 Service Manual starting on page 98. It's straight forward and no surprises, but follow the manual line by line. There are a couple of nuts inside the bottom of the lower case that could get missed (under the oil pick up tube as I remember). KawaBCN just did this job about a month ago and I remember that he started to reassemble and missed a step (didn't install the cam chain tensioner before installing the cylinder head) and had to backtrack. He hasn't fired it up and run it yet and he might have to replace the head gasket because of his mistake.
Just take your time. Maybe mark which step you're working on and complete it before moving the marker.

KB
Post Note- If you don't have a copy of the service manual, as a member you're entitled to view / download a copy from the Home page of this site

Thanks Kawboy. I have indeed already downloaded a copy of the workshop manual and it has been invaluable.
I've been following it step by step, as you suggested, but my issue is that the instructions read:

• Screw three 8mm crankcase bolts evenly into the holes provided in the lower crankcase to split the two crankcase halves apart
• Mark bearing inserts so that they can be reinstalled in their original locations.

Then it goes straight into Assembly. 

I assume the engine should be upside down from the associated picture but there is no mention as to whether the crank and drive train all remain complete in the lower case (which is actually the upper case as the engine is upside down).
Ideally I'd like to be able to remove the actual upper crankcase and leave the lower (sump half) behind. Is this possible. (The upper half has the most damage that needs repairing).
The next disassembly steps invole complete disassembly of the transmission etc which I REALLY don't want to do.........
Thanks again for your reply.

If you have good cylinders and pistons, I recommend not lifting the cylinder block, it will save you a lot of work.

Before removing the crankcase, make sure that the gear change is in neutral, you will check this by rotating the cardan shaft plate freely.

Unscrew all the nuts that are behind the cylinder block until you reach the output of the cardan shaft, then turn the engine over, first remove the oil pan and with the help of the workshop manual, unscrew all the nuts that hold the two halves of the engine block.

Observe the position of the gear forks as this is what you will have to respect to reassemble the engine, the cardan shaft output plate must always roll freely.

In my thread "The moment of true", starting on page 9 you will see the engine disassembly process and also the link where I bought the gasket set.

Luck.

This will help with almost all other issues and is probably the most concise "restoration" thread you'll find anywhere.  Stan's work stands on its own, speaks for itself and is even more impressive when you learn it was all accomplished in his apartment and underground parking !  His lengthy article with countless photos is a valuable supplement to the "Manual'. 
"You can make a Silk Purse from a Sows ear" ! 

www.kz1300.com/index.php/bike-projects/2...ue-and-rebuild#16981

Thanks!

Unfortunately, amongs the littany of issues, is that the base gasket leaks, so the cylinder block does need to be removed. It'll at least give me a chance to inspect pistons and rings properly. Nope, not looking forward to this at all. At least on my BMWs there's only one piston to fit into each head at a time!!!.

Thanks again for all your pointers, they really are most appreciated.  I look forward to reading through the links you posted.

This poor bike definitely fits into the "sow's ear" category. It breaks my heart to see how it's been neglected and abused.

Cheers.