TOPIC:

From this thread..

"If you decide to delete the air induction system, you will have to block the ports that feed the fresh air to the exhaust ports and that can be done with either high temp epoxy (Scotch did it that way and still holding up ) or drill/tap/plug the ports."
Sir Kawboy

Is that because if one uses material other than metal, e.g. plastic, the hot exhaust gases traveling up passageways might burn/melt the new cover plate?

I removed the air induction system. Running stock reeds and cover.  Hose fitting hole capped off.

Wondering what results would be if a feller removed AIS and reeds, ran a blank off cover made of 1/8" aluminum?


 

If you want to go the extra step: Cut the reed-boxes completely off, right down to the top of the cam-cover. Use an appropriate size tube cleaner (Brass or S/S), clean the ports and fill with epoxy. You may find it now easier to remove the cam-cover and/or the two lower ignition coils.

Thanks Scotch. Still wondering why it needs be done in the first place?

Double post.

Make sure you block off the air hose fitting from the air box too.

scotch wrote:

If you want to go the extra step: Cut the reed-boxes completely off, right down to the top of the cam-cover. Use an appropriate size tube cleaner (Brass or S/S), clean the ports and fill with epoxy. You may find it now easier to remove the cam-cover and/or the two lower ignition coils.
 

Curious if the two lower coils have to be removed in order to get the cam cover off if the reed boxes are cut off.  As far as I can tell, removing all the reed valves and associated pluming doesn't accomplish anything but it might be worthwhile just to reduce the amount of stuff that needs to be removed at valve check time.