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The PS-1000 rotating seal is thicker in diameter.

Amazon Seal on RHS, taller. 

OEM at 5.13mm.

PS-1000 at 2x that, 10.16mm.

 

Oh well.

Slight difference here too, although it might have been measurement error due to spring compression from dial caliper.

The spring on the Z1300.de unit is stiffer than the PS-1000 US Seal.

More measurements. Kawboy, these measurements are +/- .2 micro inches!

Thermostat spring. Notice the yuck. Pretty sure it's from the radiator stop leak I foolishly put in when I thought it was leaking. 

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Notice the yuck on the sealing lip... no wonder it was leaking.

Another view of the grooves in the surface.Well, this attempt failed. Only cost me 10 bucks, so worth the while. 

Entire thread on my blog  here .
 

PaulD wrote:

First off thanks for reinstating my post, after all the input I feel like it’s only manners to give an update. 
The weather finally cleared and I managed to get out for a short test run. I only did about 50 miles but it was enough to bed the seal in. Coolant was dripping out of the telltale hole as I was warming the motor up before I set off so I tucked a plastic milk bottle filled with a 50/50 mix of neat anti freeze and distilled water inside my jacket just in case. The temperature gauge stayed in the normal range for the whole ride and stopping after about ten miles the coolant had stopped dripping from the telltale.
 

The original seal in my 86 leaks every spring for about 10 minutes when I first fire it up.  I've never been able to positively identify exactly where it's leaking but I assume it's from the seal drain.
 

You got some cleaning to do Lucy !!. Rad stop leak? Really?? Most of the products made like that are ground up coconut shell and some kind of binder. I can't even begin to imagine how you could flush all that shit out. The only rad stop leak I'm aware of that stops leaks in its tracts and doesn't block passages is a product made by Forte and its primary component is polymer snowflakes which layer on top of each other and stop the leak. Best part was the fluid never contaminated the passages with goop like "Barr's Leak". That stuff is like liquid tar and coconut shell grindings. I'd rather scrape off undercoating from the bottom of a car then try to flush out a system that had Barr's Leak in it.
Good luck with that.
But let's not forget that the mechanical seal faces are lapped to less than 2 light bands and there is absolutely nothing smaller than 2 light bans that could sneak between the seal faces, so that means when the mechanical seal fails, it's failed. The fact that a seal fails after sitting for a couple of months and then reseats itself tells me that the coolant is contaminated with acid and "oxidizing" the seal face. Most coolants have a life expectancy and need to be changed out when the PH levels get out of whack. 

KB, yeah, I know.
<Hangs head in shame />
Thought I had a leak. Of course, I did. Past the water pp seal.  Sigh.

After I did this flush, my over heating issues went away.

True, I didn't see any debris flush out, as the flow rate was high and I let it run for just under one hour. I still have the 'rig' and will flush again just for the hell of it.