TOPIC:

Bucko - tapping the tensioner body at the end has been discussed previously, but the opinion is that the metal is very thin at that point, so you would not have much of a threaded area. However, the tensioner locking set screw at the side screws into a cast in boss, so has ample threaded thickness. A lock nut would be a wise addition in conjunction with the longer locking set screw.

I actually have exactly those two modifications made, the longer bolt on the tensioner with locknut and another bolt threaded to the end of the body. The latter serves as an indicator for the stretching of the cam chain and also indicates the condition of the rubber roller at the bottom of the tensioner.
That is how I found out recently that the rubber was gone. Found it later at the bottom of the oil pan...

I was also concerned about the lack of material in the end of the adjuster body. I used an appropriate nut, rounded it, chamfered one side to fit correctly in the bottom of the stem and when correctly sized, pressed it in.
Note: The addition of this internal nut changes the relationship of the notch in the adjuster and the short bolt that locks the assembly in the retracted position for assembly. You will need to use a longer bolt to hold the assembly fully retracted. When the CCT is installed, replace this (longer) bolt with the OEM.

Ah yes, scotch, I now remember your post about fitting a nut into the tensioner. Thanks for reminding us.

Correct me me if I am wrong but the original concern with the OEM tensioner is that it will back out and the chain will slack?

With the Kz I got the PO simply but a bolt and nut on the end. You just wind it in till it lightly touches and job done. Just adjusted it every now and then, and no worries about too much or not enough pressure on the cam chain.

razmo99 wrote: Correct me me if I am wrong but the original concern with the OEM tensioner is that it will back out and the chain will slack?

With the Kz I got the PO simply but a bolt and nut on the end. You just wind it in till it lightly touches and job done. Just adjusted it every now and then, and no worries about too much or not enough pressure on the cam chain.

That's exactly what I was suggesting....

Bucko wrote: Made me think: why not drill and tap a hole for a small bolt (and lock-nut) in the end of the tensioner body (axially lined up with the tensioner plunger). Retain all the internal tensioner parts and just lightly snug up the bolt occasionally to take up any slack left by the tensioner adjusting forward. i.e preventing the plunger from moving backwards.