TOPIC:

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum after buying a 1979 A1 KZ1300 basket case, two wheels, a shot tank, a frame, five down pipes (rotten), three incomplete and stuck carbs and a stuck engine (it was very cheap). Mine is remarkably similar to the one owned by the gentleman called Stan (epic thread Stan - I took a day to read all of it as I will be facing same!).

I have the engine in bits and have redone the head and the cylinder tub with new pistons. Now, before I attempt to put the whole thing back together again, I am wary that the bottom end and gearbox may need work and new cam/waterpump chains but have no idea how to determine that.

How can I see whether the gear wheels are OK or not, if the chains need replacing and if all bearings are OK etc?

The whole thing seems to turn by hand easily, no up/down play in the pistons, very little side-to-side, gear change seems smooth and all teeth on all the gears seem to be there, no broken ones....

Any advice?

Cheers
Paul

First, Welcome to the club. Lots of great advice here when you need it. If you haven't checked out the FAQ tab yet, I would suggest you do to familiarize yourself with the common issues and how some of the members have resolved the issues.

Second thanks for the pics. Usually we have to ask the new members to post some pics. That's quite a project you have taken on and kudos to you for doing so.

Third- It would be nice to know where you're from and your background. You're obviously mechanically inclined if you already have the top end sorted out. It would be nice to know more personal info so we can communicate with you in a common language and not insult your intelligence if you are a wrencher at heart.

I'm going to back off here and let some of the other members address your questions. It's time for me to sit back for a while and let the others chime in. If they don't, I will give you my thoughts.

Good luck with the project and please start a new thread and post your progress. We love watching it all come together.

KB
post script - I need you to post 1 more thread and I approve so you have complete access to the site. (it's part of our security program to keep the riffraff at bay) Your intent here is obviously genuine.

Welcome Paul and thank you for mentioning my thread! I've been trying to distance myself from the forum now that the bike runs and I've already posted lots of info, as I need to have find life beyond the forum! hahaha But as someone said, 'when I thought I was out, they pull me back in'! hahahaha

Yes, I see your bike is indeed in a similar state. You have the rear end complete, but miss the mufflers, I'd say it's a tie

I'd say clean the gears multiple times. Next time I'd probably use a hose on the gears after the oil pan is removed, then dry it with a hair dryer ans spray some oil on them so they are protected and safe to turn again. If they are already clean, visual examination and if all look good, and feel solid when trying to wiggle them in every possible way, I'd not worry about them.
The chains - it's in the manual and I can't take it off the top of my head exactly what are the numbers. Bottom line is to measure length of the chain between a number or links and see if it's within the limits. If anything needs to be changed, you'd need to split the cases, although people replaced the cam chain and water pump chains without it splitting the chains.

My wild guess is your gears and transmission are good.

Looking forward to seeing photos of the actual rebuild! How did you progress with revitalizing the cylinder block?

Lots of parts available from eBay. Some very expensive, some great deals. Sometimes what you are looking for is available only as a part of a bundle. I wouldn't hesitate buying the bunch and then you can post the left overs back on eBay or keep them as spares. I got so much spares I am thinking about putting together a whole engine, keeping it as spare, sell to recuperate the expense of this project (and that was a huge one), or wait for great deals which DO happen, and put another bike together and sell, to recuperate the expense of this project. I think I am repeating myself, LOL

You will have a great financial advantage if you live in the USA.

Good luck and looking forward to see the progress!
Stan

Thanks Stan. I have found the measurements for the cam chain and the one that drives the water pump, oil pump and timing in the manual and these are well within spec.

All tensioner guides are also hardly worn and connecting rods do not move other than very slightly side-to-side which I'm told is OK. Considering the engine had previously been overbored and thus taken apart, perhaps they changed the chains and the big ends etc. as well.

However, I cannot find the measurements for the primary and secondary chain?

I will attempt to take and post a video (is that possible on the site? If not I'll post a link to dropbox) of the insides from underneath and show you how much/little play there is in the gears and what they look like, plus to show what the primary and secondary chains slack is. I want to avoid taking the crankcase apart if I can avoid it..

Cheers
Paul

Ok, I will attempt to post a few videos I have made of the engine innards... can't do that on this site, so here are a few links to Vimeo, hope that works.

vimeo.com/295046918
vimeo.com/295046653
vimeo.com/295046483
vimeo.com/295045875

Your collective views on whether I need to open the crankcase and replace the primary and secondary drive chains and/or any of the gearbox gears/bearings, or crankcase/connecting rod bearings would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Paul

Hi Paul

You're questions regarding the primary and secondary chain wear tolerances are answered in the service manual on pages 189 and 191. The primary chain slack is allowed to be 22mm of vertical movement as measured in the center of the drive and driven gears. The Secondary chain slack is allowed to be 21mm of vertical movement as measured between the drive and driven gears. Note that there is a web in the casing that can get chewed out by the back side of the chains if the slack is too much You can see the web in the third vimeo.
Everyting else as per your vimeo's look fine.

Cheers,
John