TOPIC:

Any advice would be great! My clutch was working fine but struggled to get back into neutral when bike hot after riding , so decided to adjust cable following workshop manual, like a fool I didn't record existing settings! What I did exactly wound in adjuster at clutch lever and set 5mm play and locked off, wound in adjuster at clutch lower casing, loosened locknut in clutch, wound out screw until loose as manual, screwed back in until felt tight and back out quarter turn & locked off. Wound out lower adjuster until cable felt tight then adjusted top cable at lever to give 3mm play. When started bike on centre stand put into gear back wheel turns and still turns when I put pressure against tyre, I have turned out lower adjuster a few more turns and readjusted near lever but still the same! What am I doing wrong? It was ok before!

I'm guessing here. I think what's happened is the clutch actuator in the left side case has little to no cam action. I'm not fond of winding in the cable adjusters "all the way in" because as the clutch wears, the slack adjustment will diminish (get less) and you need to be able to free up some play.

I prefer to have the cable adjusters in the middle of their adjustment.
Then tighten the adjuster screw on the end of the clutch cam lever reasonablely tight and back off the 1/4 turn.
Check the play in the setup. You should be able to move the clutch lever about 1/2" (13mm) as measured at the end of the lever before seeing movement at the clutch cam actuator in the left case cover.

If you still have a dragging clutch-
First, what engine oil are you using. Is it certified "JASO MA" ?
What weight engine oil are you using?
Is the engine hot or cold when you're checking this clutch drag?
Is the engine oil dirty? Does it need changing?

If the above questions lead you to believe that "it's not an engine oil issue" the last thing that could be giving you grief is notches in the clutch basket which are hanging up the clutch discs. There is some play between the clutch plates and the basket ears and after a period of time running, the clutch ears will notch the basket ears and cause the clutch discs to get stuck in the notches and then the clutch plates and discs won't fully separate.

Hope this helps
KB

Thankyou Kawboy once again for your help, I have tried again following your guide its a little better , but I did have to also screw out bottom adjuster quite a bit and pulling bottom clutch arm over then the tick over seemed to raise and run steady whilst in neutral, The wheel does still turn when in first gear but I can now stop it by pressing hard on tyre.
The bike has done aprox 15k the oil I use which has covered 150 miles changed last year is Motul motorcycle oil 4T 5000 10w40 MA2 semi synthetic ( Jaso ma2)

The wheel does still turn when in first gear but I can now stop it by pressing hard on tyre.
This indicates your clutch is slipping.
.....wound out screw until loose as manual, screwed back in until felt tight and back out quarter turn & locked off.
It's about interpretation - How tight is tight?
I think you have the actuation-screw turned in too much. "......screwed back in until felt tight"
When I've had to adjust my clutch a few times over the years and again last winter after installing new friction-plates I only turn the actuation-screw in until it stops. Never "tight". The moment you turn the screw "tight" you have started the clutch release. If you have this situation then backing the screw off 1/4 turn is obviously not enough to allow full clutch engagement.

KB wrote: You should be able to move the clutch lever about 1/2" (13mm) as measured at the end of the lever before seeing movement at the clutch cam actuator in the left case cover.

My preference is to watch the clutch cable at the actuating-arm end. Just enough slack for full cable release. Close to KB's measurement, but less.

I also opened the oil filling cap and watched the clutch for visual reference. You can notice a slight movement if it gets too tight, so you definitely know then it has to be backed off.

Plus what scotch said:

My preference is to watch the clutch cable at the actuating-arm end. Just enough slack for full cable release. Close to KB's measurement, but less.

Thank you but sorry I think I have mislead you all ! Sunk in after Scotch comments, I forgot to say bike on centre stand engine running in first gear BUT WITH CLUTCH PULLED IN! Back wheel turns but can now stop it by pressing on tyre, when I first tried adjusting I could not stop wheel whilst clutch pulled in. Does this alter anything?