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Mnmike- You don't need to remove the sprocket to remove the cylinder block. Just remove the tensioner and slip the chain of the sprocket and drop it in the crankcase. You can retrieve it later.


The pin you're talking about is item #6 in the diagram. It's just a spring pin located in a blind hole on the back side of the sprocket. If you do take off the timing gear, make sure you put a wrench on the water pump shaft to hold the shaft while you remove the bolt holding on the timing gear. If you don't you may crack the nylon gear and they are hard to come by. I think the German site has someone manufacturing them if required.
Cheers,
KB

Thank you very much. And I may need some of your expertise in the future LOL

Just a thought here, be sure the chain is properly installed on the crankshaft sprocket when you put it all back together, years ago when I reassembled the top end of one of my 1300 engines I didn't realize the chain wasn't on the crank sprocket properly it was in fact beside the crank sprocket and after riding the bike about 4 kms the engine stopped because the chain slipped. Luckily no damage was done however I had to take the pan off to find the problem ( the chain wasn't riding on the crank sprocket it was just off to the side. lesson learned)

0ne word of caution. With any of the chains dropped in the crankcase there is always a chance to have them twisted and stuck, and it might be difficult to loosen them up and free. Especially if the crankshaft turns. It is hard to remove this chain as the set up is quite tight. I don't remember it in detail as it's been quite some time ago, but I think I had to remove the sprocket to remove the chain. There is not enough clearance between the crankcase - the shaft needs to be pushed back to remove the sprocket and then with it loose the chain will come off. And the chains is too tight to go around the bolt without removing it. Extra care needs to be taken not to drop the bolts and the sprocket in the case. They can get stuck between the gears in a very bad place.

To immobilize the shaft best is to use a couple wrenches (never adjustable) for more contact surface. Insert a piece of wood and turn the crank to jamm them, then the end bolt should come off.

Here is one of the blocks I have with temporary quick set up, not related to any particular model, but I think it this illustrates how tight the space is and how far the bolt goes towards the engine case. Hope this helps.