TOPIC:

Lucien-Harpress wrote: If you decide to remedy it, like was stated, it's not an overly difficult process, just pricey (mostly due to gaskets and the large multiples of certain parts, like piston rings). I'd grab a manual (or download one off this site), read it over a number of times, and then have at it. You'll need a cherry-picker lift for the engine removal, but no real special tools other than that.

If you end up pulling the engine and need some of the internal parts, let me know. If just the chain is bad, I think I've kept the ones you need indoors. If the shafts need replacement too, THEN you're chasing the correct size bearings to match both your engine cases AND shafts. I didn't have the correct tools to do this job myself, which is where I bit the bullet and just replaced my entire bottom end with a donor motor. Still, if you need parts and/or help, I'll do what I can to remember.

I spent the best part of the day contemplating what I should do next (you can probably guess my choices). Eventually I went into the garage to see if it was possible to accomplish the 'tear down' with the limited space I have. I spent a couple of hours tidying up, moving this and throwing that and when finished I felt almost confident that there is enough space. I even removed the carbies and set up much improved lighting.

Now I'm back on earth the reality is, (as globemaster said), the hardest part will be finding chain(s)that are within spec.
Lucien, thank you for your offer to help where you can I might like to take you up on that.

globemaster wrote: Excessive wear on these chains can be avoided by using the correct oil of the highest grade and changing oil/filter at the proper intervals. It is paramount to use a motorcycle oil with sufficient ZDDP and a high HTHS rating.

Good luck and please keep us informed of your progress.

Globemaster, thank you also for your encouragement, most people I talk to here locally tell me to sell it. Regarding the oil to use, I have spent a bit of time investigating engine oils but I haven't stumbled upon the two terms you speak of (I have since looked them up on the web). I have always used a diesel oil with JASO MA approval thinking that was the right stuff?

Rest assured I will keep you updated on the progress and I will be dropping the oil pan tomorrow and will let you all know the measurement I find.

Cheers

Hi,
I've been getting the same noise mainly if I let the idle speed drop too low, I put it down to the drive chains as well.
Also there seems to be a lot of play in the transmission which I think again could be down to the drive chains.
will try and attach a YouTube link but if that dosnt work just search, kz1300 transmission slack.
let's sèe if anyone thinks it looks too slack.
Thanks Pete.

Petez13 wrote: Hi,
I've been getting the same noise mainly if I let the idle speed drop too low, I put it down to the drive chains as well.
Also there seems to be a lot of play in the transmission which I think again could be down to the drive chains.
will try and attach a YouTube link but if that dosnt work just search, kz1300 transmission slack.
let's sèe if anyone thinks it looks too slack.
Thanks Pete.

Coincidentally, You've got the same sound. OUCH!! I'd expect to see about 1/4 of that movement. Your going to have to hound dog that slop in the driveline. Lots of things to look at. I doubt it the u-joint in the shaft but.... Then there's the cam damper on the outboard end of the driven shaft of the transmission There's a belville washer pack with an adjustment.

see post #6177 in link www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/engines/9...earings?limitstart=0
thanks Lucien - Harpness for the great picture!!


It could end up with it being the 2 chains but I would have expected to hear more clunking at different stages of rotation of the final drive shaft as seen in your video.

Crappers, is it time for a group buy on drive chains???

LOVE the videos by the way. What a great way to share your issues with the group !!!!!

Petez13 wrote: Hi,
I've been getting the same noise mainly if I let the idle speed drop too low, I put it down to the drive chains as well.
Also there seems to be a lot of play in the transmission which I think again could be down to the drive chains.
will try and attach a YouTube link but if that dosnt work just search, kz1300 transmission slack.
let's sèe if anyone thinks it looks too slack.
Thanks Pete.

Hey Pete, which model do you have?

Great reading, and i can see all the same problems that i had when i rebuilt my engine.
also what hasnt been pointed out yet is that the cam chain is driven by the secondary shaft which is driven by the primary chain from the crank.
if there is that much slack in the chains then the cam timing is affected, this would enhance the poor running.
i also noticed with mine that i had wear on the crank, primary, and secondary shafts from the chains.
an inspection of these gears is a must before fitting new chains. ( that is of course if you can find new chains)
Lucien had the best idea i think, find a low mileage engine and strip it for parts.


mistermonkeyclaw on ebay has used chains and a good looking secondary shaft is all else fails.

Hi,
Ive got the model that wants me to sell my house and wife to fund all the repairs lol, It's the early carb model A1.
I'm planning a top end rebuild as it's using a bit of oil and looks like the oil level window is steaming up a bit so could have head gasket leakage as well.
what I really didn't want to do is split the whole engine. I haven't got my own garage so means doing it at the Mercedes garage where I work so not ideal.
I can't say for sure that its the chains but noticed when I last had the oil pan off there was slack in the chain, which I'm suprised about with only 26,000 on the clock.
cheers Pete.