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I use the Kawasaki synthetic motorcycle oil. From my local dealer it is less than $10 CAD per liter which puts it in the same price as most of the car synthetics. Oddly enough, they also sell the Rotella synthetic which is $17.00 per liter. Ouch!

McZed wrote: It’s funny you mention diesel oil in old goldwings. I have a Harley - come on now somebody has to buy them - and I was told than if I couldn’t get genuine Harley Davidson oil it was ok to use oil meant for diesel engines as a temporary measure.

Yep that's true, the handbook for the Buell X1 Lightning I owned 15 years ago (tuned HD Sportster 1200 engine) recommended automotive turbo-diesel oil for the engine. Mind you the gearbox was separate on that & ran it's own separate oil.
I use Halfords semi-synth 10w-40 motorcycle oil, which is perfectly adequate IMO & a bit cheaper than the big brands (Halfords is a large automotive accessory store here in the UK).

even though my 750 turbo is awaiting resurrection a lot of the boys on the forum recommend a diesel engine oil for the bike, so there must be something good about it

Ledkz1300 wrote: I use the Kawasaki synthetic motorcycle oil. From my local dealer it is less than $10 CAD per liter which puts it in the same price as most of the car synthetics. Oddly enough, they also sell the Rotella synthetic which is $17.00 per liter. Ouch!

Crappers LEDKZ1300 !!! Go to Walmart $46.97 for 5 liters of Rotella T6. That's $9.39 a liter. The other thing I like about the Rotella T6 is that it's 5W40. So 5 weight oil when it's cold is really good to get the oil moving around and getting everything all nice and wet on start up and 40 weight oil when it's all hot and bothered to keep all metal things apart. The most significant wear happens at start up and during warm up. Better to have a lighter oil when cold as has been proven by studies.

I've been an AmsOil user for more that 35 years and I've never had any problem until today.

I've had AmsOil in this bike for a decade with no problems. Just recently my starter clutch started slipping. Now, I've replaced starter clutches several times but the way this one was failing was new, at least to me. I'd pull in the clutch, hit the starter and the engine would turn over right up to the point that the first cylinder would pop at which point the starter would start slipping. At this point, all I can do is wait for it to spin down and come to a stop with several clanks. If the bike starts with the first pop, no problem but if it has to crank for any time it will likely slip on the first pop.
A mechanic friend of mine asked if I was using synthetic oil, said it was too slippery.
I just now changed the oil to Honda 10W40 Motorcycle oil, took it for a ride and the problem seems to have vanished. Could be that my starter clutch is just about to go and the slickness of the oil is right where it needs to be to show the problem.

I guess I'll stick with the dino oil, at least till I tear it down for some other reason to look at the rollers, springs and boss.

Bill

l use Rotella in all my old road bikes from little fartcycles to CBX, my R1 gets full syn Amsoil

Cheers