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Well the cam chain tool came in so it was time to have at it. When I removed the chain I tied a piece of string onto the end of the old chain and then pulled the chain out. So now I had the string in place to help install the new chain. Tied the end of the string on to the new chain and fed it in to the engine and around the shaft. Interesting point was when I was removing the old chain I couldn't get it to disengage from the gear down below so I had to rotate the engine and feed it off of the gear. When I went to put it back in the chain ran around the shaft but not on the gear and I thought what are the chances that if I rivet it all back up, I won't be able to get the chain back on to the drive gear on the secondary shaft. Better check first. Sure enough with a bit of maneuvering it went back up on to the gear. So keep that in mind when you're dropping the cam chain to do other work like removing the head.

Anyway, the chain breaking riveting tool doesn't work very well when you try to split the chain. It's a shitty design when using on small chain, so I was forced to grind the pins enough to remove the side link from the chain. And a word to the wise, if you're going to try to do this job, beware, when you remove the side link and then remove the master link, there are 3 intermediate links that will drop out.

So now all I have to do is remove the string and install the master link. Now that's fun. That chain wants to pull itself into the crankcase. I have hands the size of bear paws. Try holding 2 ends of the chain and inserting the master link and lining up 4 intermediate links from both chain ends and at the same time inserting 3 intermediate links while pushing the master link through the 2 chain ends. Took a few minutes and I didn't drop anything thank God. Now you have to put the end link on the master link. Well, it's a .004" interference fit between the holes on the side link and the pins on the master link, so in essence you have to press the plate on to the pins on the master link, but not too far or the chain will bind on itself. I found enough pieces in the chain riveting tool to put together to get it done but as you press the link on you need to check the fit with a Vernier. So a little bit at a time and check, check, check. Got the side plate to within .002" of the final size. Now time to flare the end of the master link. Again, found the pieces in the riveting tool and assembled but this tool is more designed for larger chains like 530 drive chains. In the end got it set up and started pressing. Took my time and kept measuring with the Vernier. Probably pressed each pin about 5-7 times and checking as I went. End result, the master link ended up .002" narrower than the rest of the chain and the link is free and not binding, so I'm really happy with the result.
Another thing If I were to do this job again, I would order an extra couple of master links. If you over press the pins on the link, the chain could bind and that's not good, so if you had to, you could just grind off the master link and do it over again. I made the mistake of not getting an extra, so I was really careful not to over press the pins.



Hope you can see the master with the different flare on the end of the pins. One pin didn't flare quite in the center of the pin, the other looks really good, but I'm not worried since there's no movement between the outer link and the pin, only between the pin and the inner links. Time to start reassembly. Yippee!!!