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Starting Motor Clutch Query 10 years 7 months ago #2966

  • Toddh
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Hello Tim:

There is a lot of torque forces (Rotational back and forth) working on these fasteners holding the clutch together. Did you use Loctite (Blue) on the threads?

Two things come to mind that may be creating this problem.

1: Are the two thrust washers installed in the correct position? They are not the same thickness. Also the inner washer (Thicker of the two) is the first item that goes on the crank with the Chamfered edge toward the engine facing inwards.

a: the 92026-XXXX washer goes on the crankshaft as the first part to be installed.
b: the 92025-XXXX washer goes between the dampner and clutch housing.

See IPB below.


cdn.partzilla.com/diagram/kawasaki/08/0110/D-8.png



2: Did you have a chance to take your starter clutch housing down to your local machine shop for a magna-flux inspection? These have been known to crack from time to time. It's a bit rare but it sounds like your clutch is still slipping, possibly from your loose fasteners, hardware in the wrong location, or further unseen damage.

Regards.

Todd.
KZ1300 A-4 4TH 1300 IN 30 YEARS
KZ1000 D-3/ Z1R
ZX900 GPZ A-3
KZ750 E-1
K1200GT
CB750F 1978

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Last edit: by Toddh.

Starting Motor Clutch Query 10 years 7 months ago #2990

  • Tonto
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Todd, thanks
I torqued up to the levels specified in the Workshop Manual, and used loctite to try to prevent any recurrence - wishful thinking on my part. I did have the starter clutch housing and workings inspected by a competent mechanic and he thought all was OK.

Re the Thrust Washers: my bike is an early US spec A1 : registerd July 1st 1979: and from the workshop manual and microfiche images Ive seen, I think there is only one thrust washer: part no 92026-1059, situated behind the starter clutch, located diretcly on the crank. Although I might be misreading the drawing ?

It's this one that I am sure is incorrect, as the item fitted to my bike seems way to thin - probably 0.5mm and not the 2.3mm chamfered item that should be in-situ. I am currently trying to source a new replacement thrust washer.

Cheers Tim
"Success consists of going from failure to failure without the loss of enthusiasm " Winston Churchill.

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Last edit: by Tonto.

Starting Motor Clutch Query 10 years 6 months ago #3504

  • Tonto
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My starter clutch problems are running longer than expected !
Armed with advice gladly received so far, I thought I had resolved it, but sasdly not: new repair kit fitted, correct size thrust washer fitted between crank and reduction gear (that took some finding), smaller washer fitted between clutch gear and sub-alternator (as per Kwak diagram), no excess wear anywhere, all torqued up - and still she slips :unsure: :unsure:

It all looks so relatively simple to fix: sadly it's not turning out that way: Anything obvious anyone thinks I have missed. Only confusing point is that my Kawasaki Fische diagram of a US 1979A1, shows shows both thrust washer to be the large recessed item; but I dont think that can actually fit ??

It sa real shame, as finally we get good weather here in trhe UK and my Z13 continues to sit in my garage. I am going admit defeat and take her to an "old school" bike workshop repair shop and see if he can reslove it.

Glad I have my Z900 to play with: but still mighty frustrating.

Cheers Tim
"Success consists of going from failure to failure without the loss of enthusiasm " Winston Churchill.

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Starting Motor Clutch Query 10 years 6 months ago #3506

  • Toddh
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Say Tim:

Sorry to hear about your starter clutch.

1: When you say you had someone inspect your clutch, did they look at it visually, or did they magna-flux the housing?

It's the only way to detect hairline cracks.

2: Can you use a micrometer and make sure the bearings are the same outer diameter?

3: Are the new springs the same length to slightly longer than the old ones you took out? Depending on how worn/ compressed your old springs were.

4: are you putting the spring pins back on the top of the springs when you re-assemble the clutch?

5: When assembled, can you freely rotate the Sprague clutch in one direction and not the other? If memory serves me correctly it grips clockwise, and freewheels counter clockwise?????

6: What condition is the bronze bushing in (inside) the starter clutch gear? (the large gear)

7: What condition is the pin and hosing on the reduction gear? (Smaller gear between the starter and clutch)

8: Is there any abnormal wear on the teeth?

Let us know.

Todd.
KZ1300 A-4 4TH 1300 IN 30 YEARS
KZ1000 D-3/ Z1R
ZX900 GPZ A-3
KZ750 E-1
K1200GT
CB750F 1978

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Last edit: by Toddh.

Starting Motor Clutch Query 10 years 6 months ago #3522

  • Tonto
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Todd, thanks for the pointers.
I'll be stripping her down again next weekend and will re-check everything.
Basically all looked OK with no excessive wear; teeth good, bronze bush is good etc etc. but I did only have the housing visually inspected.

One thing I had not thought of, is that the actual repair kit was fitted by a dealer 4 days before I bought the bike: Ive got a receipt stating new Kawa repair kit fitted and assumed all components would be spot on: as I thought they were a common part and widely used on all Z650, Z750 fours and Z13's.

I'll let you know what transpires - but it really is annoying the hell out of me. :angry: :angry: as for the past few weeks my Z13 is doing its best impression of a 700lb garage ornament.
Cheers Tim
"Success consists of going from failure to failure without the loss of enthusiasm " Winston Churchill.

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Starting Motor Clutch Query 10 years 6 months ago #3525

  • kwak1261
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Ive had similar problems on my GS1000 in the past, that would undo the bolt on the end letting the whole assembly rotate on the end of the crank and just make a whering sound but not turn
the engine, make sure the bolt has threadlock on it and is FT.
Z1300 A4 ZG1300 DFI X2
Z1261J GS1000S
Vmax1200 XT500

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